Crocheted Compass Rose

Image

 

Compass Rose
Crochet tutorial and pattern

Note: I made a video tutorial to go along with this. You can find it here:

Three colors of yarn are used. A main background color, (I used almost 2/3 of a 1 pound skien. And less than a 7oz skien for each of the other colors. A bit of contrast color for the middle if you like.

I used an “I” hook, but an “H” hook will work just as well. The overall width of the design, is aprox. 25″. An “H” hook would give you about 22-23″. Using HD’s instead of Doubles will make it even smaller, say, 18- 20″. The main color can go on as long and as wide as you want to make it, Or just increase two of the sides and have the pattern in the corner. Whatever you make of it, I would like to know how you did, and if possible, see a picture of it.

When I made the Compass Rose, I had many starts and stops. LOTS of un-doing and re-doing! Along about row 18, I figured out how to best correct a persistent problem that started waaaay back at the beginning of the main background color. No, I did not decide to un-do and re-do the entire thing….. again. I decided to correct the written directions and add a video note to the beginning of the tutorial.

Beginners, read all the notes, intermediates check out
#’s 3, 4, 5, 12 and 16… AND the important note in #11.

Some notes to start with.
1 – Every row will start with a chain 3. This automatically counts as a DC. So if I start with ‘5 dc’, I mean chain 3 and 4 DC’s. Okay?
2 – ‘Slp st’ means slip stitch… no wrapping yarn, just put the hook into the stitch and drag a loop through it and the loop on your hook.
3 – T and TM … ‘T’ stands for transition. Meaning add the next color in the pattern. ‘TM’ means transition to the main background color. To transition, pull the next color through the loops on your hook to finish the stitch. (With a DC, you would have 2 loops left on hook, when decreasing, you would have 3.)
4 – PR and CR…. The main N S E W points are the Prime radials of the Compass rose. The corner ones are therefor the Corner Radials. So… PR and CR.
5 – Leave longer tails on your main color. ‘MC’ These will help to clean up some of the angled transitions to the radials. To get them out of the way, just go into the MC a few stitches and catch it through the back of one stitch. If you don’t want to do this, then you can always come back with a free piece of yarn when you are through.
6 – Ch = chain, just pull the free yarn through the loop on your hook
7 – DC = Double crochet, wrap the yarn around your hook, go into the next stitch, pull a loop through it. 3 loops on hook, now pull a loop of yarn through 2 of these loops and do that again.
8 – HD = Half Double crochet, start like the DC only draw your new loop through all three loops on hook.
9 – 3DC cluster. in a granny square, this is the three DC’s that come out of one stitch or space in the pattern.
10 – dec = combining 2 stitches on the line into one stitch at the top. For a DC you would YO (wrap yarn around your hook) and pull up a look from the next stitch, pull a loop through both of these… then YO and pull up a loop from the next stitch, pull a loop through both of these, then pull a loop through all three loops left on hook.
11 – inc = 2 stitches in the same stitch on the line. So just complete your stitch and then go back into the same hole you just used and make a second one. IMPORTANT NOTE: For this pattern, you will make the stitch closest to the dec a DC and the second one, farthest from the dec, a HD. This is to keep a straight side instead of developing a bow.
12 – a straight granny or closed granny, calls for 2 stitches in the chain 2 space. at the end and beginning of each side. If you don’t like the large hole this leaves in your colored radial, then follow the directions in the video. I put 2 stitches in the stitch NEXT to the ch2 sp and one IN the space. this gives a smaller hole. Don’t forget to make the first one (away from the corner) a HD!
13 – Every corner will grow by 2 stitches on each side. The counts given are for each HALF of a side… from center to corner and not counting the chain stitches.
14 – All rows will start in the middle of a side, until you have no more radials to deal with.
15 – *-* means do everything shown between the *’s in that row,
16 – 3D dec = crochet the next 3 stitches together. YO, pull loop through first st, pull loop through 2 loops repeat with next 2 st, pull loop through all loops on hook.
17 – The ‘( )’ at the end of each row is the quick count for the rows, the PR, the CR the MC and the total from center to corner.
18 – TC = triple crochet, wrap 2 times around the hook, go into the stitch indicated and pull up a loop. *YO pull through 1st 2 loops, then YO and through 2nd 2 loops*, YO and through last 2. To decrease, do not go through the last 2 loops, do *-* in the next indicated st, and then YO and through all loops on hook.

So here is the complete, and corrected pattern for the Compass Rose. Enjoy!

Row 1: Begin with a magic circle (see video) or chain 4 and slp st to first chain, then chain 3. Add 2 DC to the ring (3DC cluster made) chain 2, 3 DC’s, ch 2 and so on until you have 4 clusters. Ch 2 and slp st to 3rd chain of beginning ch 3.

Row 2: Chain 3 and TURN. I have a reason for this. When you turn, you will be facing the corner. do 2 DC’s, ch2 and 2 DC’s all in the corner, do not chain one, go directly to next corner and do 3 DC’s, ch2, 3 DC’s in that corner, repeat to beginning, with no ch1 between side clusters. Slp st into the 3rd ch up on the beginning chain. Tie off and weave in your ends.

Row 3: Add your next color (not the MC, that will come later) to the connection place. Ch 3. Working in the stitches and not between, DC in each stitch to the last st before the ch2 sp. HD and DC (inc made), DC in ch2 sp. ‘T’, ch2 DC in ch sp, DC in next, HD in same (inc made). DC to near center hole (with no chain one to confuse things you have two center holes, left and right.)
‘T’ and work the same way to the corner. (Remember how to inc in last hole nearest corner.) Repeat this on all 4 sides ‘T’ before slp st to beginning. (5 st’s from center to corner.)

Rows 4 and 5: nothing different. Just follow the pattern and ‘T’s around. (7 and 9 st from center to corner)

Row 6: Here we add the corner radials ‘CR’s. *8 DC, HD in last st.’T’, DC in same hole as HD, DC in ch sp, ‘T’, ch 2, DC in ch sp, DC in first st, ‘T’ HD in same stitch, 8 DC, ‘T’* continue *-* to end. after T, slp st to beginning ch 3. (9 PR, 2 CR = 11)

Row 7: This row, we dec the PR’s and inc, the CR’s. From now on, I will not remind you to use the HD when increasing, so keep on your toes!
*7 DC, dec. ‘T’, inc in next, inc in last st,. DC in ch sp, ‘T’, ch2, DC in ch sp,, inc in each of next 2 st. ( hint: the 2 HD’s will be together here) ‘T’, dec,, 7 DC, ‘T’.* continue *-* to end. finish as in R 6. (8 PR, 5 CR, = 13 st.)

ATTENTION: Work all corners the same. The number of CR’s from now on, will include the increase (including the HD), in the stitch closest to the ch 2 space. So 7DC = 5dc on one side of inc, the HD, and the DC on the other side.

Row 8: No dec in the PR this row. * 8 DC’s. ‘T’, 7 DC in CR, ‘T’, ch 2, 7 DC, ‘T’, 8 DC, ‘T’ * repeat *-* around. (8 PR, 7CR, = 15 st.)

Row 9: This row, we dec the PR’s and the CR’s. Time to add in the background or Main color (MC) Transition to MC will be ‘TM’.
* 6DC, dec, ‘TM’ 4 st in first CR stitch… (DC,2 HD, DC). ‘T’, 3D dec (see note 16), 5 DC to corner, ‘T’, ch 2, 5 DC, 3D dec, ‘TM’, 4 st in last CR st. (..DC,2 HD, DC), ‘T’, dec, 6 DC, ‘T’* run *-* around. (7 PR, 6 CR, 4 MC = 17st.)

A note for those confused about the way the decreases are treated… The PR’s will gradually decrease, so 1 dec every other row. The smaller CR’s will dec every row, or they would be as long as the PR’s. But the corners naturally grow by 2 every row, so in order to have the corners dec by 1 every row, we need to dec the corner colors by 3. If we decreased by 2, we would have the same # of colored st’s every time. By skipping the st farthest from the corner and filling it with MC, we only need to dec by 2. So the 3D dec. handles it. It is one of the things I did the wrong way and had to re-do. I tried 2 decreases in the CR’s and ended up with a cupping problem, pulled in rounding corners, and a heavy riple in the MC. My mistakes = your gain!

Row 10: No dec in the PR’s this row. *7 DC, ‘TM’ 3DC, DC & HD in next, HD & DC in 1st CR st. ‘T’ 3D dec, 4 DC, ‘T’ ch 2, 3 DC, 3D dec, ‘TM’, DC & HD in next, HD & DC in next, 3DC, ‘T’, 7 DC, ‘T’* *-* around. (7 PR, 7 MC, 5 CR = 19 st.)

Row 11: Decreasing PR’s to 6 and CR’s to 4 this round. *5 DC, dec, ‘TM’ inc, 5 DC, inc next 2 st. (DC,HD,HD,DC), ‘T’ 3D dec, 3 DC, ‘T’ ch 2 3 DC, 3D dec, ‘TM’, inc twice, 5 DC, inc, ‘T’ dec, 5 DC, ‘T’* *-* around. (6 PR, 11 MC, 4 CR = 21 st.)

Row 12: No dec in PR’s. *6 DC, ‘TM’, 10 DC, inc twice, ‘T’, 3D dec, 1 DC in last st used for 3D dec, 1 DC in ch sp, ‘T’, ch 2 2 DC, 3D dec starting in last st used, ‘TM’, inc twice, 10 DC, ‘T’, 6 DC. ‘T’* *-* around. (6 PR, 14 MC, 3 CR = 23 st)

Row 13: Decreasing PR’s to 5. *4 DC, dec, ‘TM’, inc, 12 DC, put 2 HD & 1 DC in next st. ‘T’, regular dec, 1 DC in corner, ‘T’, ch 2, 1 DC, reg. dec., ‘TM’, put DC & 2 HD in next st., 12 DC, inc, ‘T’, dec, 4 DC, ‘T’* *-* around. (5 PR, 18 MC, 2 CR = 25 st)

Row 14: No dec in PR’s. *5 DC, ‘TM’, 17 DC, inc twice (don’t forget the HD’s!), ‘T’, 1 DC, ‘T’, ch 2 1 DC, ‘TM’, inc twice, 17 DC, ‘T’, 5 DC, ‘T’* *-* around. (5 PR, 21 MC, 1 CR = 27 st)

Row 15: Dec, PR’s to 4. We are done with the CR’s but there will be a bit of a difference in the corner treatment. *3 DC, dec, ‘TM’, inc, 19 DC, inc, inc in the single CR st., ch 1, make a TC dec., using the last st used and the only CR st remaining, (see note 18), ch 1, inc twice, starting with the st used in the TC dec., 19 DC, inc, ‘T’, dec, 3 DC.* *-* around. (4 PR, 25 MC = 29 st)

Row 16: 4 DC in PR, ‘TM’, 24 DC, inc, 1 DC in corner, ch2, 1 DC in corner, inc, 24 DC, ‘T’ 4 DC. (4 PR, 27 MC = 31 st)

Row 17: Dec PR to 3 DC this row. *2 DC, dec, ‘TM’ inc, work normal procedure with usual corners around to next PR, inc,’T’, dec, 2 DC, ‘T’,* *-* around. (3 PR, 30 MC = 33 st)

Row 18: *3 DC, ‘TM’, 32 DC, ch 2, 32 DC, ‘T’ 3 DC, ‘T’* *-* around. (3 PR, 32 MC = 35 st)

Row 19: Dec PR to 2, Work sides and corners the same as usual. So, 1 DC, dec, ‘TM’, inc, work to next prime, inc,’T’, dec, 1 DC. repeat around. (2 PR, 35 MC = 37 st)

Row 20: 2 DC, ‘TM’, work to next PR. ‘T’, 2 DC, ‘T’. repeat around. (2 PR, 37 MC = 39 st)

Row 21: Dec in Pr to one, ‘TM’ inc, work to next PR, inc, ‘T’ dec, ‘T’. Repeat around. at end, slp st to beginning but don’t chain up. Tie off. (1 PR, 40 MC = 41 st)

Row 22: Start MC anywhere except on the PR stitches, inc in st before PR st. SPECIAL PR termination *-*….. *YO, pull up loop in last st used, (3 loops on hook,) YO, pull up loop through next MC st, (5 loops on hook) YO pull through 4 loops, (2 loops on hook)* make DC in same st last used., pull loop through last 3 loops on hook, DC in same st. Work around as usual and repeat process over each point.
So, what we did is to replace the 2 PR sts, with MC, fill in the hole that would have been left behind, and still not added an extra unwanted st. to the side. Counting the stitch to each side of the point, and the 2 point sts. you have 4 sts. You need to end up with 4 st over that area, That is why we buried the dec inside the two increases. Sneaky… yes? (43 MC)

There is still a lot of clean-up to do. Weaving ends, you already know, but you will need to use either the tails or a new piece of yarn to straighten out the sides. Just use the darkest of the 2 colors (in my case the MC) Run stitches under dark outcrops or go through and up under again as needed to make your sides neat.

Now you are on your own! Congratulations! What a trip that was! Are you going to make a throw? A blanket? or keep it as is and make a large throw pillow? Maybe a wall hanging for a nautical room? I wish you the best of luck with this pattern. It was a challenge to me to figure it all out, and i loved every frustrating minute of it!

I have gone over this twice and probably still missed a comma here or there, I hope not. If so, please forgive me. Thanks!

Happy crocheting!!!

Here is a quick cheat sheet for reference:
Row 3 (5 PR )
Row 4 (7 PR)
Row 5 (9 PR)
row 6 (9 PR, 2 CR =11 st)
row 7 (8 PR, 5 CR = 13 st.)
row 8 (8 PR, 7 CR = 15 st)
row 9 (7 PR, 4 MC, 6 CR = 17 st)
row 10 (7 PR, 7 MC, 5 CR = 19 st)
row 11 (6 PR, 11 MC, 4 CR = 21 st)
row 12 (6 PR, 14 MC, 3 CR = 23 st)
row 13 (5 PR, 18 MC, 2 CR = 25 st)
row 14 (5 PR, 21 MC, 1 CR = 27 st)
row 15 (4 PR, 25 MC = 29 st)
row 16 (4 PR, 27 MC = 31 st)
row 17 (3 PR, 30 MC = 33 st)
row 18 (3 PR, 32 MC = 35 st)
row 19 (2 PR, 35 MC = 37 st)
row 20 (2 PR, 37 MC = 39 st)
row 21 (1 PR, 40 MC = 41 st)
row 22 (43 MC)

PS: If you use this and share it, please give me credit for it, either to my video or to this pattern.  It was a lot of work for me and I would appreciate it. Thank you!

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