Squared Diamond Granny Throw – written pattern

Alright!  new and final how to video on this pattern.  I improved on my last how to and hope i have answered all the questions.  I have it in left and right hand versions,,,, enjoy!

Right hand: https://youtu.be/xTy3m9-PzEY
Left hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4ff3zJmUb2s

This written pattern is an add-on to the older video for this pattern…  Right hand:  https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxJdbzAtyT4  Left hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XGTv–WXvE   hope you can see improvement between the last video and the new one!!!

The verbal instructions for the first video I made and the second, are different, as I learned from doing.  Here also, i have learned from doing and added a couple new instructions.  I hope this will help those that are struggling with following my videos.   I try to improve with every video I make…. really!  And in spite of my short-comings, you have given me encouragement and kind words. You don’t know how great that makes me feel. Thank you all!

For the sake of brevity, I am not going to tell you how to make a granny square. I am however telling you what I prefer for this pattern. I had to make some changes from the first one of these I made.

Attention!  Barb Preslier has given us a more line by line version of the pattern.  It is added below mine, copied from the comments section.  Give her a hand for her hard work!
YARN: I actually used nearly a 7oz skein of yarn for my outside or 5th color. And that is for a 5 color, double row square, and 3 layers of pattern. For larger works, adjust your yarn expectations. Allow 1/2 the yarn for the inside color and the others will fall somewhere in between.
HOOK: I used an “I” Hook. Aso known as a #9 and 5.50mm.  Having said that, you don’t have to use an “I” hook. You could use a “G” and make 4 panels for a larger bed or make one panel for a crib. You could use a “K” and bulky yarn and make a big floor cover to lay on or play on. Or a “J” and rug yarn for a floor covering. If you are a loose hooker, an “H” size will give you about the same results as mine. Be flexible and don’t angst if you don’t have a ‘right’ hook size.
GRANNY STYLE: For this granny throw, I prefer you to use the standard 3DC clusters, with no chain st between and with a chain 3 on each corner.
I used 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color. You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors.  Do go front and back on the rows. I know you might always go in one way front always facing, but the outside corners HAVE to be back and forth and the outside will have a different look from the inside if you don’t.
The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even for the side instructions to help. So grannies of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, etc are required. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.
FINISHING A SQUARE: You have just made a granny square and are ready to add the sides. To prepare for this step, you need to add a slip stitch row around. So, with preferably the front side facing you, mark the center space of the last row. Starting at the first DC of a side will make it easier to know where your connection is when it comes to counting stitches for that side. Now, slip stitch into the front loops only of each DC and chain st. (yes the front loops of the chains too) No need to allow extra stitches for turning the corners, just make sure they are not tight!
EXCEPTION: You will make an extra chain st. in the center, ( between the 2 center clusters) of each side. Place a marker on the extra stitch.
Make extra special sure you end the sl st row with the right # of stitches on the starting and ending side. It is easy to loose or gain a stitch here.  It is best to start the slip stitch row at a junction of 2 clusters or between the corner and the first cluster.  This way the knot formed by closing the row can be more easily recognized and skipped over.
COUNTING STITCHES: How many stitches should you have on a side? 3 for each cluster, and 2 extra for the corners when not counting the middle of the ch3 space. So, first side add-on with my size…. I had 10 clusters so 3×10=30 plus 2 for the corners =32 Remember the extra stitch I had you add in the center? That makes 33.
STARTING SIDES: First look at the edge of your square. The inner most loops of the sl st (the ones between the front and back) are the ones you will be using. This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece.
Starting at the center marked sl st, moving backwards towards the hand holding the hook, count over and slp stitch into the second st from center, with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch. (3DC. ch3 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center. Ch3. count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC. Turn Work!
Make 2DC in the ch1 space next to the base of the ch3. (3DC cluster made). Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip. Make 3DC cluster in the original ch1 space made when you started the color. Now, to end color, you can use a ch1 and sl st to the second stitch from the last used and tie off there, or you can SC into that st and tie off at the cluster. Turn Work!
Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in that ch1 space. continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, ch3, and SC in second st out from last sl st. Turn Work.
Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on till you reach the corners.

 

 

I need to add something here to clarify… in each side, there are 33 stitches including the extra chain st in the center. This does not include the center chain of each corner.  I originally thought it would be best to slip stitch at the corner with the 8th row.  And, if you decide to do this anyway because it seems easier for you, then slip stitch around the corner chain and not in it.  If you do it that way, then tie off the 7th row and start the 8th away from the corner.  The 8th row will be one complete round of the piece.
AT THE CORNERS:  Your 8th row will be different. when you com up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side. Turn and using the chain one space in the last row, continue back down for your 8th row, by completing the cluster you started with the chain 3. At the end of your first side, leave long tail at the end of the last cluster and do not attach. With the front facing you, you will move forward to the next side.  This will make the 8th row end at the beginning of your 8th row on the corner section you just completed. Chain 1 and slip stitch into the top of the chain 3, and tie off. Repeat for each side.  At the end, use the long tail of the first section to chain 1 and slip stitch to the last side.

The 9th row, will have the center cluster over the corners. If you used a Ch1 here, bury it here (like you do if you are hiding a tail) and connect the cluster on the corner stitch into the lower color. You will not stitch around it like on the regular granny corners.  Go behind the front loop and use two middle ones. This leaves the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as the inner square.
For each ongoing layer of outer squares, you treat them just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row.
As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer, after the first one, or using more rows of each color if you choose.  You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw.  It is all up to you.
Be flexible and have fun with this. Fudge a couple stitches if you have to to make it work out right. Crochet is very forgiving and will not show such adjustments easily.
Happy hooking guys!

I can’t tell you how happy I am that Barb did this for us!  Several people have asked for line by line instructions and now Barb has provided them! 

Thank you Barb!

Written instructions by Barb Preslier

YARN:

Approximately 5 skeins of 7 oz for 5 colors (adjust as needed for fewer colors used)

ROWS:
Ex: 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color for these instructions
You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors.
The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even. So granny squares of 8, 10, 12, etc are acceptable. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.

HOOK:
“I” hook used here but any hook you choose for the desired size of your project

GRANNY SQUARE:

Note: You can use any granny square

Granny: Round 1
Step 1. Ch3, DC in first chain space twice.
Step 2. Ch2, DC in same chain space as step 1, Ch3 and repeat 2X
sl st.
Round 2:
Step 1. Ch3, 2DC
Step 2. 3 DC, Ch3, 3DC. in Ch3 space. Repeat 3 times. Sl st.
(This counts for 2 rows of the project.)

Continue with 3DC between ea cluster below, and 3DC, Ch3, 3DC in each corner. Do not Ch 1 between clusters!

Continue to do as many rows as you want with as many colors as you want as long as you end with an even number of rows. This makes your center square.

When Granny Square is done, add a slip stitch row around. You will need to add an “extra” slip stitch on each row.

Directions for slip stitch row:

With the front side facing you, mark the center space of every row. Start at the first DC of a side and mark this spot also.
Slip stitch into the front loops only of each DC and chain st.
When you get to the center space, make an extra chain st in the center ( between the 2 center clusters) of each side.

I made the extra chain before the sl st in the exact center since when I made it after the whole triangle seemed off center. Place a marker on the extra stitch.

Marking the center spot will make it easier to know where your extra slip st goes, and where your connection is when it comes to counting stitches for that side. Make sure your sl st are not tight.

COUNTING STITCHES:

It is critical to count your stitches on each row. This will vary depending on the size of your granny square.

Ex: For the 10 rows of 5 color granny square:
3 for each cluster and 1 extra each for the corners (do not count the middle of the Ch3 space.)

So, per side: 10 clusters. 3 stitches × 10 clusters = 30 stitches plus 1 for each corner (there are 2 corners) plus the extra stitch.

30 + 2 + 1 = 33

STARTING THE SIDES:

You will be using the innermost loops. With the front facing you, You will grab the center topmost strand on the edge (the back loop of the slip stitch) and a strand in back of it. You will use these loops for all attachments.

This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece.

Find the “extra” stitch you marked in the center – the center stitch.

Fourth              Third                      Second                    First
__4__ _____ __3___ __5___ __2___ __6__ __1___ _____ __7__
L4        L3          L2           L1   Center Stitch   R1        R2           R3           R4

1. Front side facing. Starting at the center marked square, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right (R2 and R4) and 2 and 4 stitches to the left (L2 and L4). Mark these. Starting at the center marked sl st, count over to the right of center and into the second st from center. Slip stitch (1), with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch (2) . (3DC Ch3 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center (3) (the left side of center). Ch3. Count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC (4) (this will be first stitch of next cluster). The pattern should be symmetrical. Turn work!

2. Back side facing. Make 2DC (in the gap space to the left of the cluster – not the left of the Ch3 space – (5) in the ch1 space next to the base of the Ch3. (3DC cluster made). Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip (no number for this step. Just go into the large gap at the top of the center). Make 3DC cluster in the original Ch1 space (6) (gap space on the other side) made when you started the color. Now, to end color, you can use a Ch1 and sl st to the second stitch from the last used (7) and tie off there. (You can anchor the stitch by entering to the front loop from the back). Turn Work! If using 2 rows of each color, tie off and change color at the end of each back facing row.

3. Front side facing. Starting at the end of each anchor, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right and 2 and 4 to the left. Mark these. Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in that Ch1 space. continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, Ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, Ch3, and sc in second st out from last sl st. Turn Work!

Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on with rows 1-6 until you get within 5 stitches of the corners. You will stop at row 7 in this example.

Do the other 3 sides.

Tip: When you are on the last row (here row 8), you will have 3 stitches left – 2 sl st and a corner. You need to skip one sl st (either the first or second). The corner will be your end. You will not include the corner yet, but it will be the official end spot.

Note: In dealing with the center stitch of each corner when you get to it, if you want to sl st around the corner you can so you can continue on the next section. Do not include the center stitch. Then you will start the next row as in the instructions and away from the corner. Otherwise, tie off the 7th row and start the 8th row as in instructions and away from the corner.  The 8th row will be one complete round of the piece.

AT THE CORNERS:  In this example, when you get to the corners, the 7th and 8th row will be different. This is the 7th and 8th row of the side. Leave a long tail at the beginning of the 7th row only on the first side you do. When you come up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side (4). Turn and continue back up and down for your 8th row. Turn work. With the front facing you, if you are right handed, you will go to the next side to the left.  This will make this 8th row end at the free floating 3 chain from the last side. Chain 1 and slip stitch into the top stitch of the free floating 3 ch stitch and tie off. Repeat for each side.  At the end, use the long tail of the first section to chain 1 and slip stitch to the last side.

You will NOT have this last row attached to the corner yet. This will come in the next row (row).

The 9th row will have the center cluster over the corners. Connect the cluster on the corner stitch and into the lower color. Be sure to leave the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as you ended in the original granny square.

Treat all other squares just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row and one strand behind it.

As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer or using more rows of each color.  You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw. If you do, make a row, sl st to the top of the Ch 3 space to finish the row, turn your work, and make the next row going in the other direction.

Thanks guys for reading!  Happy Hooking!

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86 Responses to Squared Diamond Granny Throw – written pattern

  1. Pingback: New project | messedupinthehead

  2. Geneva T says:

    Thank you! So excited to see the written version of this! I have the yarn, just have to find the time now!

    • debbie donnelly says:

      I know how hard it is to find some time for crocheting & if I sit thru the day & crochet I feel guilty I am not doing other things that need doing, oh well,I have a large stash so yarn isn’t the problem

  3. Sandy Hairston says:

    My email address is yarngranny68@gmail.com I would like to know the colors that you used , I really love the way they look

    • chrystalkay says:

      Sandy, I am sorry to say I don’t remember the names. I used Red Heart Super Saver 7 0z skeins and the 5 oz are in the same color selection page only are 5 oz . I do know the blue was royal or royalty. I bought them off of Joan’s site and right now they don’t have that type listed. When they get more in, I will be able to look up the colors for you. I think the pink was Pretty in pink but I am not sure. So sorry.

  4. Claire says:

    Thank you – I do not understand the pattern yet, but i will keep trying! Also, your YouTube link doesn’t work. Takes me to a 404 error.

    • chrystalkay says:

      -Thank you for finding that out. I re added the link and added both right and left hand ones this time. If it still doesn’t work, then go to Crafty Chrystal in YouTube. All my videos are there.

  5. Melissa says:

    I’ve been crocheting for nearly 40 years, the granny square was the first thing I learned to make. 🙂 But this is going to take practice. So lovely! I will wait till after the holidays so I have time to master this work of beauty. Good show!

  6. this is a wonderful looking pattern…..can’t wait to try it……I have to say though, I was reading above but had to stop when I got to “loose hooker”….sorry….laughed so hard I scared my cat…

    • chrystalkay says:

      Oh! HaHa… You gave me a chuckle too1 I didn’t even realize… Thanks for pointing that out.
      And for those reading… I didn’t mean any double innuendos with that! LOL!

  7. Dolores says:

    I love this pattern. Still trying to figure it out. Only using 4 colors

    • chrystalkay says:

      Try using 2 rows for center, then 3 rows of next color, then 2 rows and follow up with 3. Ten rows total. Or just go for 8 rows of 2 each and more levels. All you need is an even number of rows.

  8. diamondbrownrose says:

    Is there any way you can make a tutorial showing us exactly how to make the triangles…I’m new at reading patterns but good at watching tutorials

  9. diamondbrownrose says:

    How do you do the triangles, I’m starting got my granny square but I’m lost on how to do the triangle part, I have watched the tutorials but they don’t show how to do the triangles

  10. Deb says:

    How about a diagram for your beautiful pattern or maybe just a basic written pattern for us sticklers
    R1..R2…etc…????

    • chrystalkay says:

      Hi Sparkle! I had hoped the written pattern I did was clear enough. What did I do wrong, that needs clarification? I would hope that between the video and the written I had covered all bases. Let me know what is giving you trouble and I will try to help.

  11. labudd says:

    When I click the top link, the final video for right handed version, it says that that video does not exist.

  12. DonnaC says:

    Your pattern is lovely. I have not yet read through it, but I will. This will go on the “to do” list, certainly. I am also one of those who, back in the late 1970s, learned how to crochet with a granny square. The way I was taught was to turn after each round, and that is my preferred method, though I know there are so many methods. I still have a love for granny squares – I guess it just stuck with me.

    • chrystalkay says:

      Thank you Donna! And don’t we all have a granny square or three in our crochet history? AND a “to do” list! Oh boy, mine will never be complete… unless I live a good many more years and add no more to it.Lol!!!

  13. Angela brown says:

    I do not understand the problem when you get to the side is kinda complicated for me to do I would like lil bit more reasonable because the way you doing it is hard for people toCan you write the pattern down for us to see how to be done because right now it is hard to understand the way they do it on the side

    • chrystalkay says:

      Hun, take a look at the video:

      at 15:58 I show how to add the slip stitch to the edged of a square. From there I show yo how to add the sides.

      If using the slip stitch is too hard for you, why don’t you make the throw one sided and just crochet through the back loops of the edge? This will give you a ridge only on the front side, but it might be easier for you.

      The written instructions are on here at “Starting the sides”

      I am sorry this is so hard for you!!!

      • Brenda Scott says:

        thanks for all of this. and please bear with me but i could not find “Starting the Sides to find the written instructions. can you help me please?

      • chrystalkay says:

        STARTING SIDES:
        Is right after: FINISHING A SQUARE:
        EXCEPTION: and COUNTING STITCHES:

  14. Angela brown says:

    Decided the problem was very hard for people to understand how to do it

  15. Delcairow says:

    I really love the look of this blanket it’s beautiful. But with that being said I find your instructions written and in the video extremely confusing and I’m not able to complete the project. Very disappointing.

  16. Jen Jacobs says:

    Just finished this and while I can see the ‘learning opportunities’ that I didn’t frog, I know my brother will be happy with it and the optical illusion of squares piled on each other. It was good fun to do. Thanks.

  17. Brenda Scott says:

    it is so beautiful! could you please provide us with the actual instructions? thank you so very much.
    Bless

    • chrystalkay says:

      Mmmmm, I don’t know what to say, actually. These ARE the written instructions. ???

      • snooky says:

        What they mean by written instructions is going by rows. Row 1. You explain how to start…Row 2. You explain how the second row,goes ,Row 3- and so forth, how you have it written above is kinda confusing to ppl who read to crochet by Rows….

      • chrystalkay says:

        Sorry snooky, I had so many people with questions, the purpose of the written was to expand regular un-explained instructions to something that had more info on each part of the pattern. It shouldn’t be hard to make a short version for yourself. Just copy and paste to notepad and delete all the extras. But a strict line by line wasn’t my goal here. Sorry it hasn’t helped you, really am.

      • Brenda Scott says:

        g m Chrystal – it is just that your work is exceptionally beautiful. i think we (ok… i) am so used to step by step instructions.. when i have completed by current 2 projects I aim to try this one out.
        wish me luck

      • chrystalkay says:

        Oh Brenda I do wish you luck with it! And you can ask me any question if you get stuck and I will answer in whatever detail is needed to explain it. And thank you for the compliment ver much. You made my day!

  18. debbie donnelly says:

    I think This is going to be a priority when I get the one I am working on finished,hopefully I can get the gist of it all

  19. jane chungi says:

    Anyone volunteer to do this wonderful pattern row by row? Thank you Chrystal. I think this is a genius piece of innovation.

    • Barbara says:

      I have been working on writing this out row by row. I’m almost done. I’m glad to share it with anyone. I’m sure there are problems in my rows that chrystalkay may want to correct. But I made one now and it looks pretty good. It’s a very forgiving pattern.

      • Karen says:

        I would love your row by row directions. I read through this pattern and am hoping once I actually start on it, the instructions will make sense. I would prefer your row by row though. Thank you so much.

      • chrystalkay says:

        Karen, Barb Preslier made a row by row and I added it under my own instructions. I hope it helps you. Perhaps by using both the written and the video, you will find everything you need to make this. Thanks you for visiting!

    • Barbara says:

      I’m working on doing a row by row. I have most of it done. I’m willing to share if anyone wants to try it and can make changes until we get it perfect. chrystalkay can check it out too for accuracy.

  20. I’m almost done typing a row by row. I’m willing to share if anyone wants to try it and can make changes until we get it perfect. chrystalkay can check it out too for accuracy.

    • chrystalkay says:

      I would love to see it and would welcome the opportunity to put a link on the video to your addition!!!

    • Brenda Scott says:

      HI Barbara” i just realized you are the one with the written pattern. you are briliant! would you share this with me please? and thank you – it is such a cool design.

      • I’d love to share it but I can’t figure out how. If I have an email address I can invite you to get it from my box account.

      • chrystalkay says:

        You can copy and paste it either on the comments here or the video comments. I will copy it here in the instructions with your info on who wrote the directions and any info you want to show them inc. how to contact you. They can ask you questions on the reply spot in the comments too if you prefer.

  21. I need to put the written instructions on the site. Do I send it directly to you or should I upload the document to my box account and share it with you?

    • chrystalkay says:

      You can do it that way, if you prefer, or just past it here in the comments. I will add it to the instructions with your name on it. Or if you have a blog somewhere to post it on,I can put the news that you have a line by line written and give your url. However you want to share it, i will go along. I think it will be a great help to those that need the line by line. You will their hero!

  22. For the instructions that I have written out:

    Try this link to my drop box. I tried to copy and paste but it looses the color font I have in it.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ba4rr00fkuq8ip0/Squared%20Diamond%20Granny%20Throw%20written%20instructions.docx?dl=0

    Please let me know what you think. And we can make changes as errors are found. I can take some photos of some of the most difficult steps.

    Let’s hook together!

    • chrystalkay says:

      Okay, I have tried in various ways to copy the text from the drop box… no dice. It will take some time to copy it as is so I can work with it. I will have to check it carefully and that might take some time, so I am looking at this weekend to get it done.
      You did a LOT of work here and I really appreciate it!
      Thank you sooo much!

    • Angela says:

      Hello: If I am not misstaking did you post photos to accompany your written instructions I thought I saw them on line but I could not find anymore.
      Thank you

  23. Squared Diamond Granny Throw – written pattern

    Pattern by chrystalkay
    Written instructions by Barb Preslier

    YARN:

    Approximately 5 skeins of 7 oz for 5 colors (adjust as needed for fewer colors used)

    ROWS:
    Ex: 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color for these instructions
    You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors.
    The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even. So granny squares of 8, 10, 12, etc are acceptable. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.

    HOOK:
    “I” hook used here but any hook you choose for the desired size of your project

    GRANNY SQUARE:

    Note: You can use any granny square

    Granny: Round 1
    Step 1. Ch3, DC in first chain space twice.
    Step 2. Ch2, DC in same chain space as step 1, Ch3 and repeat 2X
    sl st.
    Round 2:
    Step 1. Ch3, 2DC
    Step 2. 3 DC, Ch3, 3DC. Repeat 3 times. Sl st.
    (This counts for 1 row of the project.)

    Continue to do as many rows as you want with as many colors as you want as long as you end with an even number of rows. This makes your center square.

    When Granny Square is done, add a slip stitch row around. You will need to add an “extra” slip stitch on each row.

    Directions for slip stitch row:

    With the front side facing you, mark the center space of every row. Start at the first DC of a side and mark this spot also.
    Slip stitch into the front loops only of each DC and chain st.
    When you get to the center space, make an extra chain st in the center ( between the 2 center clusters) of each side.

    I made the extra chain before the sl st in the exact center since when I made it after the whole triangle seemed off center. Place a marker on the extra stitch.

    Marking the center spot will make it easier to know where your extra slip st goes, and where your connection is when it comes to counting stitches for that side. Make sure your sl st are not tight.

    COUNTING STITCHES:

    It is critical to count your stitches on each row. This will vary depending on the size of your granny square.

    Ex: For the 10 rows of 5 color granny square:
    3 for each cluster and 2 extra for the corners (do not count the middle of the Ch3 space.)

    So, per side: 10 clusters. 3 stitches × 10 clusters = 30 stitches plus 1 for each corner (there are 2 corners) plus the extra stitch.

    30 + 2 + 1 = 33

    STARTING THE SIDES:

    You will be using the innermost loops. You will grab 2 strands of the sl st from the backside.

    This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece.

    Find the “extra” stitch you marked in the center – the center stitch.

    Fourth Third Second First
    __4__ _____ __3___ __5___ __2___ __6__ __1___ _____ __7__
    L4 L3 L2 L1 Center Stitch R1 R2 R3 R4

    1. Front side facing. Starting at the center marked square, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right (R2 and R4) and 2 and 4 stitches to the left (L2 and L4). Mark these. Starting at the center marked sl st, count over to the right of center and into the second st from center. Slip stitch (1) (grab 2 strands from backside), with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch (2) (go thru 2 front loops on this). (3DC Ch3 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center (3) (the left side of center). Ch3. Count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC (4) (this will be first stitch of next cluster). The pattern should be symmetrical. Turn work!

    2. Back side facing. Make 2DC (in the gap space to the left of the cluster – not the left of the Ch3 space – (5) in the ch1 space next to the base of the Ch3. (3DC cluster made). Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip (no number for this step. Just go into the large gap at the top of the center). Make 3DC cluster in the original Ch1 space (6) (gap space on the other side) made when you started the color. Now, to end color, you can use a Ch1 and sl st to the second stitch from the last used (7) and tie off there. (You can anchor the stitch by entering to the front loop from the back). Turn Work!

    3. Front side facing. Starting at the end of each anchor, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right and 2 and 4 to the left. Mark these. Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in that Ch1 space. continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, Ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, Ch3, and sc in second st out from last sl st. Turn Work!

    Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on with rows 1-6 until you get within 5 stitches of the corners. You will stop at row 7 in this example.

    Do the other 3 sides.

    Tip: When you are on the last row (here row 8), you will have 3 stitches left – 2 sl st and a corner. You need to skip one sl st (either the first or second). The corner will be your end. You will not include the corner yet, but it will be the official end spot.

    Note: In dealing with the center stitch of each corner when you get to it, if you want to sl st around the corner you can so you can continue on the next section. Do not include the center stitch. Then you will start the next row as in the instructions and away from the corner. Otherwise, tie off the 7th row and start the 8th row as in instructions and away from the corner.  The 8th row will be one complete round of the piece.

    AT THE CORNERS:  In this example, when you get to the corners, the 7th and 8th row will be different. This is the 7th and 8th row of the side. Leave a long tail at the beginning of the 7th row only on the first side you do. When you come up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side (4). Turn and continue back up and down for your 8th row. Turn work. With the front facing you, if you are right handed, you will go to the next side to the left.  This will make this 8th row end at the free floating 3 chain from the last side. Chain 1 and slip stitch into the top stitch of the free floating 3 ch stitch and tie off. Repeat for each side.  At the end, use the long tail of the first section to chain 1 and slip stitch to the last side.

    You will NOT have this last row attached to the corner yet. This will come in the next row (row).

    The 9th row will have the center cluster over the corners. Connect the cluster on the corner stitch and into the lower color. Be sure to leave the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as you ended in the original granny square.

    Treat all other squares just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row.

    As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer or using more rows of each color.  You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw. If you do, make a row, sl st to the top of the Ch 3 space to finish the row, turn your work, and make the next row going in the other direction.

    • TINA GILL says:

      “Step 1. Ch3, DC in first chain space twice.
      Step 2. Ch2, DC in same chain space as step 1, Ch3 and repeat 2X”

      This makes no sense. The first instruction (place a slip knot on the hook) is missing. Then if I follow these instructions as written, I get the following:

      Chain 3, place 2 DC into the first chain. Chain 2, make one DC into the same chain space, then chain 3, then chain 2, then make one DC into same chain space, then chain 3, then chain 2, then make one DC into the same chain space, then chain 3.

      I end up with a strange lopsided wagonwheel.

      • chrystalkay says:

        That was Barbara’s method. I prefer to use a magic circle, but the idea is, to make a granny square. There are several ways to do that. I think she meant to make the whole start of the granny square in the first chain, but it should have been a chain 4 so the last 3 chains would equal the first double crochet. Just start the square with whatever method you like best or check out my last video on the subject. At the beginning I show you how I start one, https://youtu.be/xTy3m9-PzEY?list=PLHC72TfuEIZHOZB-mBUMW7CBo5Nsnzz1K I hope the video will help you over any of the rough spots.

  24. some of the lines got messed up – like the chart

  25. Pingback: Diamond Granny Crochet Throw | Styles Idea

  26. Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful pattern.

    I only have two questions.

    Are you turning after every row, even on the granny square?

    And has anyone used the pattern to make a bigger version? As in one whole blanket and not putting multiples together?

    I hope that all made sense

    Yvonne

    • chrystalkay says:

      Yvonne, You don’t have to turn for the first inside granny part, but since you need to turn for the corners, it just makes the inside match the look of the outside. You can see the difference, but it is totally up to you.
      As for going really big, i don’t know just how big your are talking. You should be able to get to a Calif King size, those are supposed to be as long as they are wide. And that works out fine. Some change or add onto the edges with other squares or color bands etc. Whatever you decide to do, it will be okay. This is your creation!!!

  27. Colette says:

    Love your blanket, have made three for family members and working on a fourth. For anyone who is having trouble with the written patten, I watched the second video, it made it easier for me. Again thank you so much for this design.

  28. Pingback: Diamond Granny Squared Throw | Styles Idea

  29. Terri says:

    I made a blanket for my adult son using one of your “squared diamond” patterns with camo colors and he really loves it!! Thank you so much! I’m trying something new with one for my daughter. I’d like to had the smaller squares in each corner of the blanket but I can’t start them correctly. I’m bad at reading patterns but videos have taught me to crochet. Can you tell me where the pattern starts on the small squares? Is there a video with those? Thank you again!! Merry Christmas!!

    • chrystalkay says:

      Someone else came up with the squares on the corners and I only saw the picture they shared. If I was going to try it, I would anchor 2 stitches up from the corner middle chain and use the corner middle chain as the new center for the square. I would do the attachments the same as for the corners of the main piece, but make 2 doubles, chain 3, cluster(3DC), chain 3, cluster, chain 3, 2DC. Attach to the side of the square 2 stitches up from the center you have been using with a slp st. Slp st over to the corner chain and into the chain space, then chain 2, attach with a sc to side then 2 more DC into the corner space and chain 3 and another cluster and continue on around in granny fashion, attach to side 2 stitches up with a sc. Chain 2 attach 2 sp up with a slp stitch and DC in the SC space below. continue on as usual. The differences as I see it will be the alternate use of the 2 DC or ch2 plus 1DC on the edges where a normal cluster would be in a square, these 2 st row ends would attache with a slip stitch because you don’t put any stitches there on the neat row. on alternate rows, you need to attache with a SC so you have an anchor to fit the 2 stitches in the next row up. Saying it another way… whole cluster ends on one row followed by a 2 stitch cluster on alternate rows. Oh and no ch1 between side clusters and your square builds. Whew! That is how I would do it and you can try that and see what it does for you. Thank you for the complement to my pattern! I really appreciate it!

    • Brenda says:

      You are truly exceptionally talented and even more of a good person.

      Thank you Chrystal.

      Brenda

      • chrystalkay says:

        Wow! Thank you so much for the compliment! I don’t know what I did to deserve it but I really appreciate it!

      • Brenda says:

        Hi dear crochet person! I just bought my yarn to work on the pattern that you have so gracefully shown all of us how to make. I’ll keep you posted 🙂

        And thank you again

        Brenda

  30. chrystalkay says:

    Wonderful! I will be looking for the updates!

  31. TINA GILL says:

    Do you happen to remember which colors you used for the blanket featured on Ravelry.com? Not the one with the red center but the one with the mint center? I LOVE the colors.

    • chrystalkay says:

      Actually it is a color problem with the camera. I used a light blue there and it looks green. If you can actually go to a yarn store, you can spot easily the colors that will look great together. I like to use the darkest on the outside to really let the graphic on top look pop. I use either my lightest color for the middle or a darker variegated related to the lightest color. Sorry I can’t help you more with this question.

    • TINA GILL says:

      I put together colors that I liked. No variegated this time because the color I wanted was sold out. I went with all Red Heart Super Saver in Minty, Jade, Real Teal, Soft Navy and Dark Orchid. 🙂

  32. chrystalkay says:

    Oh it sounds wonderful! Please let me now how you are doing with it.

  33. what are the measurements (how big will it be)? thanks 🙂

  34. Peggy Stuart says:

    Love the look of this.

  35. Judy says:

    What are the colors of the yarn used
    Thank you it is beautiful

  36. I have been doing granny squares for years and found this pattern and was really excited! I found the written instructions really confusing and the video was totally different?? You never stated in the written pattern to turn and who make a first round INTO the stitches??? That was really confusing. That magic ring is even worse I have used it numerous times and everything came apart at the end.

    The pattern is beautiful. I still trying to work it out.

    • chrystalkay says:

      Hun, the first round described in the directions is the 11th round. The slip stitch round after the ten rows of granny square. The corners are added onto the sluip stitch row so the inside granny square stands out. Go back and re- read the beginning, before the directions start. It tells you where I am beginning the directions. Also, in the video, the last one, I mentioned that the inside square should be made with rows going in both directions, so the center would look like the corners. There is a distinct visual difference in going all one way and going front and back. I am sorry you are having trouble.

    • chrystalkay says:

      For a very slow and clear way to do the double magic circle check this out. I did it twice explaining it as I went. Personally I could never get the single magic circles to work without disintegrating. With the double i have no problem at all and can cut it as soon as I finish the center. give it a try…

  37. Mimi says:

    Crystal, I love your colors and pattern used in this video. Thank you for taking time to mull over your ideas on camera. It helps a newbie like me to realize just some of the possibilities this pattern offers.

    Be blessed.

    PS: Enjoyed seeing your fur baby!

  38. Lamojo123 says:

    I’ve been looking for a diamond square pattern since I tried one before and the instructions had so many mistakes I had to ditch it. I’m looking forward to trying out your pattern. I am a yarn hoarder so I have plenty of yarn to practice this on. Thanks for sharing your beautiful pattern. 🙂

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