Squared Diamond Granny Throw & written pattern

I am making new video to go with the written version of this pattern.  I have worked out a new set-up for my videos, that allow me to see what I a doing while letting you see what I a doing.  In other words.. keeping my hands INside the frame! LOL

I will post the new links as soon as I make them.  The current ones are below.

Right hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F5NGFWUDI4A&t=1s
Left hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nPhvcrUGX6c&t=1s

Squared Diamond Granny Throw

I Am replacing both my former instructions and Barb Preslier instructions with what I hope is better written instructions for this pattern.

Up top, are detailed long winded notes. It would be good to read them. Below them is a shorter, row by row pattern for you. I really hope this helps everyone!!!!

YARN: For a 5 color project, get 5 7oz skeins of yarn. I used Red Heart regular super saver. The outside color will take almost all the 7 0z. The innermost color, will take about 1/2 that. The others fall somewhere in between.

HOOK: I used an “I” Hook. Also known as a #9 and 5.50mm. Having said that, you don’t have to use an “I” hook. You could use a “G” and make 4 panels for a larger bed or make one panel for a crib. You could use a “K” and bulky yarn and make a big floor cover to lay on or play on. Or a “J” and rug yarn for a floor covering. If you are a loose hooker, an “H” size will give you about the same results as mine. Be flexible and don’t angst if you don’t have a ‘right’ hook size.

GRANNY STYLE: For this granny throw, I prefer you to use the standard 3DC clusters, with no chain st between and with a chain 3 on each corner.

You must turn your work on every row, or the inside granny square will look different from the outer corners. Those HAVE to be back and forth unless you want to cut and tie off every row.

The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even! So grannies of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, etc are required. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.

I used 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color. You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors.

FINISHING A SQUARE – DOUBLE SIDED and SINGLE SIDED: At end of last row, turn to front. Slp st in front loop of every st around including the Ch3’s. (slp st loosely over Ch sts.) Ch 1 in center of each side and mark it or you will lose it. [pictures 1, 2, 3]

COUNTING STITCHES: How many stitches should you have on a side? 3 for each cluster, and 2 extra for the corners when not counting the middle of the ch3 space. So, first side…. I had 10 clusters so 3×10=30 plus 2 for the corners =32 Remember the extra stitch I had you add in the center of the slp st row? That does not count as a stitch. It is considered both the last and first stitch in the center clusters.

STARTING SIDES:

Two sided: Behind the front and back loops of the Slp st row, you will find 2 threads on the edge. One is slightly longer than the second thread back, and the second is a little behind (closer to your hook hand) than the front one. You will use these for every attachment. This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece. You will use the back 2 threads of the Ch1 spaces to anchor the corners at each center side.

One sided: On the edge, use one center thread and one back loop to attach every row, the two back threads of the center Ch1 will anchor your corner group.

Note: SC’s used at the beginning and end of rows are treated like a Ch1 space. You work around the ‘post’ of the sc like you would a Ch st. 

Starting at the center marked Ch st, moving backwards towards the hand holding the hook, SC into the second st from center, (edge of your ‘hook side center cluster’) with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch. (3DC, Ch3, 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center. (outside edge of the cluster on the other side of center.)

Picture 9

Ch 1 and anchor the other side with a slip stitch

Ch3. count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC. (Sace for next cluster) Turn Work!

Picture 10

Chain 3 and attache to side with a SC.

Row 2: Make 2DC in Ch1 sp. at the base of the ch3. (3DC cluster made).

Picture 11

Put 2 DC into the Ch 1 space below

Picture 12

First 2nd row cluster made

Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip. Make 3DC cluster in the original SC made when you started the color.

Now, to end color, SC into the second stitch up, and tie off. Turn Work!

Why am I using SC st to tie on and off spots? …To leave the end on the inside of the color and not at the edge. Easier to hide that way. 

Row 3: Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. (1st st of third cluster, hook side) Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in the SC space at end of last color. Continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, Ch3, and SC in second st out from last sl st. (1st st of third cluster on that side) Turn Work.

Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on till you reach the corners.

AT THE CORNERS: Your 8th row will be different. when you come up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side. Turn and using the space in the last row, continue back down for your 8th row, by completing the cluster you started with the chain 3. At the end of the row, do not tie off, and do not attach… pull out a long stitch and loosely tie it. Leave a slightly long tail and cut. Turn work. With the front facing you, move around forward to the next side. At the end of the 8 row , Ch1 and slp st into top of the chain 3 of 8th row of the last side you did, and tie off. Turn work to front again and go forward to the next side. Repeat for each side. At the end, use the long tail of the first section to ch1 and slp st to the last side.

The 9th row, will have the center cluster over the corners, and bury the Ch1 space (like you do if you are hiding a tail) and connect the cluster on the corner stitch into the lower color. You will not stitch around it like on the regular granny corners. Go behind the front loop and use two middle ones. This leaves the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as the inner square.

For each ongoing layer of outer squares, you treat them just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row.

As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer, after the first one, or using more rows of each color if you choose. You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw. It is all up to you.

Be flexible and have fun with this. Fudge a couple stitches if you have to to make it work out right. Crochet is very forgiving and will not show such adjustments easily.

Happy hooking guys!

Line by Line:

Begin: Make magic circle,

Row 1 – Ch 3, in Magic Circle… 2DC, *Ch3, 3DC* 3x’s. Ch2, Close Magic Circle. SC to top of Ch3. Chain 3 and turn. (turn every row on inner granny!)

Row 2 – 2DC in Ch2 sp, *3DC, Ch3, 3DC* in next Ch3 space, repeat *-* 2x’s. 3DC around post of SC, Ch3 Slp st to top of Ch3. Tie off. Turn.

Row 3 – Change color, Slp st in any side space and Ch3, 2DC in same sp, *3DC, Ch3, 3DC in next corner*.  3DC in next gap, 3DC Ch3 3DC in next corner,  Repeat around to first cluster. Slp st to top of Ch3.   Ch3 and turn.

Row 4 – 2DC in same gap, 3DC in each gap, 3DC, Ch3, 3DC  3Dc in each Corner cluster Ch3 sp.  Slp st to top of first Ch3. Tie off.

Row 5 – Change color, Slp st in any middle gap. Ch3, 2DC in same gap. 3DC in every gap, Corner cluster [3DC, Ch3, 3DC] in every Ch3 corner.  Slp st to top of first Ch3 in first cluster, Ch3 and turn.

Row 6 –  2DC in same gap.  3DC in each gap,  Corner cluster in each Ch3 corner, Slp st to top of first Ch3 and tie off.  Turn.

Row 7 – Change color. Slp st in any middle gap, Ch3, 2DC in same gap. 3DC in each gap and Corner cluster in each corner around.  Slp st in top of first Ch3, Ch3 and turn.

Row 8 to 10 – repeat rows 6, 7.  Do not turn at end of row 10!

Outside of square – With Slp st on hook, front of the last row is facing you. Slp St in front loop of each DC and loosely in each Chain.   > Ch1 in center of each side. >Mark Ch1.  Slp st to first Slp st and tie off.  >See pictures in long notes above.

This is the end of the inner Granny square.

Notes:

All row connections:

2 Sided connections are on center 2 threads on edge. See long note above.

1 Sided connections Are on center thread behind the Slp st’s and the back loop.

All outer Sections:

All even rows start and end in SC,

All odd rows, start and end with Ch1.

Row 8 does not connect to inner square.

First side:

Row 1 – Looking at it from the center out..  Slp st in 3rd DC of first center cluster, and Ch1.   In marked Ch1 sp, *3DC, Ch3, 3DC*(** Corner set) . Ch1, Slp st to 3rd, DC of cluster on other side of center.

Row 2 – Ch3, SC to middle DC of next cluster out. Turn work. 2DC in Ch1 sp. Corner set in corner Ch3 sp., 3DC in Ch1 sp. SC to middle of next cluster. Tie off. Turn work. See pictures above.

Row 3 – Change color. Slp st to 1st DC of next cluster out, Ch1, 3DC in SC, 3DC in next gap, Corner set, 3DC in next gap, 3DC in SC, Ch1, Slp st to 1st DC of next cluster.

Row 4 – Ch3, SC to last DC of same cluster. Turn work. 2DC in Ch1 sp., 3DC in next 2 gaps, corner set, #dc in next 2 gaps, 3DC in Ch1 sp. SC to last DC of same cluster. Tie off. Turn work.

Row 5 – Change color. Slp st to middle DC of next cluster. Ch1, 3DC in SC, 3DC in each gap, Corner set, 3DC in each gap, 3DC in SC, Ch1, Slp st to middle DC of next cluster.

Row 6 – Ch3, SC to 1st DC of next cluster. Turn work. 2DC in Ch1 sp., 3DC in next 2 gaps, corner set, #dc in next 2 gaps, 3DC in Ch1 sp. SC to first DC of next cluster. Tie off. Turn work.

Row 7 – Change color. Tie onto last DC on side. Ch1, 3DC in SC, 3DC in each gap., corner set, 3DC in each gap, 3DC in SC. Ch1, slp st to last DC of side, Ch3 and TURN

Row 8 – 2DC in Ch1 sp, 3DC in each gap, corner set, 3DC I each gap, 3DC in Ch1 sp. Pull out long loop or secure with a marker. Leave 4-5” tail. Cut. Turn

End of first side section

2nd – 4th sections:

You have the front facing you. Back up to the next side behind your hook hand (right for right handed, left for left handed)

Same as first, but at end of row 8, you will Ch1 and slp st to 3rd ch of row 8 on last section made.

Now undo long loop on first section row 8 and Ch1 and slp st to top of Ch3 of 4th section ,  Row 8.  Turn work so back of row 8 faces you.

Row 9 – Tie onto any gap before inner square corner and Ch3. 2 more DC in gap,  3DC over Ch1 of Row 8 and through back 2 threads of Ch3 corner of inner square. 3DC in each gap around. Corner clusters in each corner Ch3.  Repeat to beginning, Slp st in 3rd Ch of first DC.

Row 10 – Ch3 and turn. 2DC in same gap, 3DC in each gap and corner sets in each corner to end.  Slp st into top of Ch3. do not turn.

Slip stitch row – slp st into front loops of each DC and Ch st. Add extra Ch1 at center of each side and mark it.  Slp st into first Slp st. Tie off.

End of second Square.

The next layer, will not end with the last color at the tips of the square you just completed. But the rows are treated just the same.

The Third Square:

Rows 1-12 – Do the same as rows 1- 6 on last outside corner sets.

You will end tied off rows at Row 12. You will be on your second run, through the color changes. So row 12 will be the end of your 1st color of the second go round. It will begin and end on the middle DC of the ‘second to the last cluster’ on each side.

This is the end of separate sides.

Row 13:   Start a couple clusters back.  Add 2nd color with a slip st and Ch 3  and work up to the inner corner.  @Ch 1, Slp St into the last cluster on inner corner.  (EXTRA STEP:  Turn work over so you can see the back of the slip stitch, Slp St into the “leg” of the slip st), Ch 2  Ch 1, Slp st into the 1st DC of the last cluster on inner corner, Do EXTRA STEP, Ch 1, 3DC in SC gap.@  [Repeat @to@ at each inner corner.]  Cluster in each cluster around and corner set in each corner.   Ch 1 and Slp St into top of Ch 3.  Chain 3 and turn.

Row 14 –  3DC in each gap, Corner set in each corner ,  3DC in Ch 1 sp before inner corner,

skip Ch 2 sp. Ch1,  3DC in next Ch 1 sp, and continue on around to beginning. Ch1 and slp st into 3rd Ch on Ch3.  Tie off. 

 

Rows 15 to 20 – Just 3 Color changes to go!  Add 3rd color anywhere, and finish last 6 rows same as rows 7 -10 in inner granny square.

Outside Edge:

We are going to finish with a Barred Single crochet.  This is one of my own stitches that makes a really nice two sided edge.   We just went through a lot of effort to make this a two sided project, no need to have a one sided edge to top it off…. is there?

After your slip stitch, at end of row 20,  Ch 1. and turn.  You need the back side for this edge.

Barred SC: *Use the side of your hook to drag the feed yarn forward, and go into the top of the next DC .  Exaggerate your hooks entry into the stitch by bending the handle all the way down in front.  This will force the feed yarn out where you can catch it on the edge of the stitch with your thumb.  Grab this,  YO, and draw your loop through like normal, let go of the feed line with your thumb, then YO and complete your SC.*  So, *to* is… Drag, go in next stitch, bend hook, grab feed, pull loop through, release feed line, YO pull through 2 loops.  [See end of video.]

Slip stitch to Ch 1 and tie off.

Congratulations!! You Did it!!!

 

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100 Responses to Squared Diamond Granny Throw & written pattern

  1. Pingback: New project | messedupinthehead

  2. Geneva T says:

    Thank you! So excited to see the written version of this! I have the yarn, just have to find the time now!

    • debbie donnelly says:

      I know how hard it is to find some time for crocheting & if I sit thru the day & crochet I feel guilty I am not doing other things that need doing, oh well,I have a large stash so yarn isn’t the problem

  3. Sandy Hairston says:

    My email address is yarngranny68@gmail.com I would like to know the colors that you used , I really love the way they look

    • chrystalkay says:

      Sandy, I am sorry to say I don’t remember the names. I used Red Heart Super Saver 7 0z skeins and the 5 oz are in the same color selection page only are 5 oz . I do know the blue was royal or royalty. I bought them off of Joan’s site and right now they don’t have that type listed. When they get more in, I will be able to look up the colors for you. I think the pink was Pretty in pink but I am not sure. So sorry.

  4. Claire says:

    Thank you – I do not understand the pattern yet, but i will keep trying! Also, your YouTube link doesn’t work. Takes me to a 404 error.

    • chrystalkay says:

      -Thank you for finding that out. I re added the link and added both right and left hand ones this time. If it still doesn’t work, then go to Crafty Chrystal in YouTube. All my videos are there.

  5. Melissa says:

    I’ve been crocheting for nearly 40 years, the granny square was the first thing I learned to make. 🙂 But this is going to take practice. So lovely! I will wait till after the holidays so I have time to master this work of beauty. Good show!

  6. this is a wonderful looking pattern…..can’t wait to try it……I have to say though, I was reading above but had to stop when I got to “loose hooker”….sorry….laughed so hard I scared my cat…

    • chrystalkay says:

      Oh! HaHa… You gave me a chuckle too1 I didn’t even realize… Thanks for pointing that out.
      And for those reading… I didn’t mean any double innuendos with that! LOL!

  7. Dolores says:

    I love this pattern. Still trying to figure it out. Only using 4 colors

    • chrystalkay says:

      Try using 2 rows for center, then 3 rows of next color, then 2 rows and follow up with 3. Ten rows total. Or just go for 8 rows of 2 each and more levels. All you need is an even number of rows.

  8. diamondbrownrose says:

    Is there any way you can make a tutorial showing us exactly how to make the triangles…I’m new at reading patterns but good at watching tutorials

  9. diamondbrownrose says:

    How do you do the triangles, I’m starting got my granny square but I’m lost on how to do the triangle part, I have watched the tutorials but they don’t show how to do the triangles

  10. Deb says:

    How about a diagram for your beautiful pattern or maybe just a basic written pattern for us sticklers
    R1..R2…etc…????

    • chrystalkay says:

      Hi Sparkle! I had hoped the written pattern I did was clear enough. What did I do wrong, that needs clarification? I would hope that between the video and the written I had covered all bases. Let me know what is giving you trouble and I will try to help.

      • Patricia Chavez says:

        Hi, love your pattern, but I followed and my squares are curling up. Please if you have a diagram to share?
        Patriciachavez050 @Gmail.com

  11. labudd says:

    When I click the top link, the final video for right handed version, it says that that video does not exist.

  12. DonnaC says:

    Your pattern is lovely. I have not yet read through it, but I will. This will go on the “to do” list, certainly. I am also one of those who, back in the late 1970s, learned how to crochet with a granny square. The way I was taught was to turn after each round, and that is my preferred method, though I know there are so many methods. I still have a love for granny squares – I guess it just stuck with me.

    • chrystalkay says:

      Thank you Donna! And don’t we all have a granny square or three in our crochet history? AND a “to do” list! Oh boy, mine will never be complete… unless I live a good many more years and add no more to it.Lol!!!

  13. Angela brown says:

    I do not understand the problem when you get to the side is kinda complicated for me to do I would like lil bit more reasonable because the way you doing it is hard for people toCan you write the pattern down for us to see how to be done because right now it is hard to understand the way they do it on the side

    • chrystalkay says:

      Hun, take a look at the video:

      at 15:58 I show how to add the slip stitch to the edged of a square. From there I show yo how to add the sides.

      If using the slip stitch is too hard for you, why don’t you make the throw one sided and just crochet through the back loops of the edge? This will give you a ridge only on the front side, but it might be easier for you.

      The written instructions are on here at “Starting the sides”

      I am sorry this is so hard for you!!!

      • Brenda Scott says:

        thanks for all of this. and please bear with me but i could not find “Starting the Sides to find the written instructions. can you help me please?

      • chrystalkay says:

        STARTING SIDES:
        Is right after: FINISHING A SQUARE:
        EXCEPTION: and COUNTING STITCHES:

  14. Angela brown says:

    Decided the problem was very hard for people to understand how to do it

  15. Delcairow says:

    I really love the look of this blanket it’s beautiful. But with that being said I find your instructions written and in the video extremely confusing and I’m not able to complete the project. Very disappointing.

  16. Jen Jacobs says:

    Just finished this and while I can see the ‘learning opportunities’ that I didn’t frog, I know my brother will be happy with it and the optical illusion of squares piled on each other. It was good fun to do. Thanks.

  17. Brenda Scott says:

    it is so beautiful! could you please provide us with the actual instructions? thank you so very much.
    Bless

    • chrystalkay says:

      Mmmmm, I don’t know what to say, actually. These ARE the written instructions. ???

      • snooky says:

        What they mean by written instructions is going by rows. Row 1. You explain how to start…Row 2. You explain how the second row,goes ,Row 3- and so forth, how you have it written above is kinda confusing to ppl who read to crochet by Rows….

      • chrystalkay says:

        Sorry snooky, I had so many people with questions, the purpose of the written was to expand regular un-explained instructions to something that had more info on each part of the pattern. It shouldn’t be hard to make a short version for yourself. Just copy and paste to notepad and delete all the extras. But a strict line by line wasn’t my goal here. Sorry it hasn’t helped you, really am.

      • Brenda Scott says:

        g m Chrystal – it is just that your work is exceptionally beautiful. i think we (ok… i) am so used to step by step instructions.. when i have completed by current 2 projects I aim to try this one out.
        wish me luck

      • chrystalkay says:

        Oh Brenda I do wish you luck with it! And you can ask me any question if you get stuck and I will answer in whatever detail is needed to explain it. And thank you for the compliment ver much. You made my day!

  18. debbie donnelly says:

    I think This is going to be a priority when I get the one I am working on finished,hopefully I can get the gist of it all

  19. jane chungi says:

    Anyone volunteer to do this wonderful pattern row by row? Thank you Chrystal. I think this is a genius piece of innovation.

    • Barbara says:

      I have been working on writing this out row by row. I’m almost done. I’m glad to share it with anyone. I’m sure there are problems in my rows that chrystalkay may want to correct. But I made one now and it looks pretty good. It’s a very forgiving pattern.

      • Karen says:

        I would love your row by row directions. I read through this pattern and am hoping once I actually start on it, the instructions will make sense. I would prefer your row by row though. Thank you so much.

      • chrystalkay says:

        Karen, Barb Preslier made a row by row and I added it under my own instructions. I hope it helps you. Perhaps by using both the written and the video, you will find everything you need to make this. Thanks you for visiting!

    • Barbara says:

      I’m working on doing a row by row. I have most of it done. I’m willing to share if anyone wants to try it and can make changes until we get it perfect. chrystalkay can check it out too for accuracy.

  20. I’m almost done typing a row by row. I’m willing to share if anyone wants to try it and can make changes until we get it perfect. chrystalkay can check it out too for accuracy.

    • chrystalkay says:

      I would love to see it and would welcome the opportunity to put a link on the video to your addition!!!

    • Brenda Scott says:

      HI Barbara” i just realized you are the one with the written pattern. you are briliant! would you share this with me please? and thank you – it is such a cool design.

      • I’d love to share it but I can’t figure out how. If I have an email address I can invite you to get it from my box account.

      • chrystalkay says:

        You can copy and paste it either on the comments here or the video comments. I will copy it here in the instructions with your info on who wrote the directions and any info you want to show them inc. how to contact you. They can ask you questions on the reply spot in the comments too if you prefer.

  21. I need to put the written instructions on the site. Do I send it directly to you or should I upload the document to my box account and share it with you?

    • chrystalkay says:

      You can do it that way, if you prefer, or just past it here in the comments. I will add it to the instructions with your name on it. Or if you have a blog somewhere to post it on,I can put the news that you have a line by line written and give your url. However you want to share it, i will go along. I think it will be a great help to those that need the line by line. You will their hero!

  22. For the instructions that I have written out:

    Try this link to my drop box. I tried to copy and paste but it looses the color font I have in it.

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/ba4rr00fkuq8ip0/Squared%20Diamond%20Granny%20Throw%20written%20instructions.docx?dl=0

    Please let me know what you think. And we can make changes as errors are found. I can take some photos of some of the most difficult steps.

    Let’s hook together!

    • chrystalkay says:

      Okay, I have tried in various ways to copy the text from the drop box… no dice. It will take some time to copy it as is so I can work with it. I will have to check it carefully and that might take some time, so I am looking at this weekend to get it done.
      You did a LOT of work here and I really appreciate it!
      Thank you sooo much!

    • Angela says:

      Hello: If I am not misstaking did you post photos to accompany your written instructions I thought I saw them on line but I could not find anymore.
      Thank you

  23. Squared Diamond Granny Throw – written pattern

    Pattern by chrystalkay
    Written instructions by Barb Preslier

    YARN:

    Approximately 5 skeins of 7 oz for 5 colors (adjust as needed for fewer colors used)

    ROWS:
    Ex: 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color for these instructions
    You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors.
    The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even. So granny squares of 8, 10, 12, etc are acceptable. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.

    HOOK:
    “I” hook used here but any hook you choose for the desired size of your project

    GRANNY SQUARE:

    Note: You can use any granny square

    Granny: Round 1
    Step 1. Ch3, DC in first chain space twice.
    Step 2. Ch2, DC in same chain space as step 1, Ch3 and repeat 2X
    sl st.
    Round 2:
    Step 1. Ch3, 2DC
    Step 2. 3 DC, Ch3, 3DC. Repeat 3 times. Sl st.
    (This counts for 1 row of the project.)

    Continue to do as many rows as you want with as many colors as you want as long as you end with an even number of rows. This makes your center square.

    When Granny Square is done, add a slip stitch row around. You will need to add an “extra” slip stitch on each row.

    Directions for slip stitch row:

    With the front side facing you, mark the center space of every row. Start at the first DC of a side and mark this spot also.
    Slip stitch into the front loops only of each DC and chain st.
    When you get to the center space, make an extra chain st in the center ( between the 2 center clusters) of each side.

    I made the extra chain before the sl st in the exact center since when I made it after the whole triangle seemed off center. Place a marker on the extra stitch.

    Marking the center spot will make it easier to know where your extra slip st goes, and where your connection is when it comes to counting stitches for that side. Make sure your sl st are not tight.

    COUNTING STITCHES:

    It is critical to count your stitches on each row. This will vary depending on the size of your granny square.

    Ex: For the 10 rows of 5 color granny square:
    3 for each cluster and 2 extra for the corners (do not count the middle of the Ch3 space.)

    So, per side: 10 clusters. 3 stitches × 10 clusters = 30 stitches plus 1 for each corner (there are 2 corners) plus the extra stitch.

    30 + 2 + 1 = 33

    STARTING THE SIDES:

    You will be using the innermost loops. You will grab 2 strands of the sl st from the backside.

    This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece.

    Find the “extra” stitch you marked in the center – the center stitch.

    Fourth Third Second First
    __4__ _____ __3___ __5___ __2___ __6__ __1___ _____ __7__
    L4 L3 L2 L1 Center Stitch R1 R2 R3 R4

    1. Front side facing. Starting at the center marked square, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right (R2 and R4) and 2 and 4 stitches to the left (L2 and L4). Mark these. Starting at the center marked sl st, count over to the right of center and into the second st from center. Slip stitch (1) (grab 2 strands from backside), with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch (2) (go thru 2 front loops on this). (3DC Ch3 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center (3) (the left side of center). Ch3. Count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC (4) (this will be first stitch of next cluster). The pattern should be symmetrical. Turn work!

    2. Back side facing. Make 2DC (in the gap space to the left of the cluster – not the left of the Ch3 space – (5) in the ch1 space next to the base of the Ch3. (3DC cluster made). Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip (no number for this step. Just go into the large gap at the top of the center). Make 3DC cluster in the original Ch1 space (6) (gap space on the other side) made when you started the color. Now, to end color, you can use a Ch1 and sl st to the second stitch from the last used (7) and tie off there. (You can anchor the stitch by entering to the front loop from the back). Turn Work!

    3. Front side facing. Starting at the end of each anchor, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right and 2 and 4 to the left. Mark these. Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in that Ch1 space. continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, Ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, Ch3, and sc in second st out from last sl st. Turn Work!

    Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on with rows 1-6 until you get within 5 stitches of the corners. You will stop at row 7 in this example.

    Do the other 3 sides.

    Tip: When you are on the last row (here row 8), you will have 3 stitches left – 2 sl st and a corner. You need to skip one sl st (either the first or second). The corner will be your end. You will not include the corner yet, but it will be the official end spot.

    Note: In dealing with the center stitch of each corner when you get to it, if you want to sl st around the corner you can so you can continue on the next section. Do not include the center stitch. Then you will start the next row as in the instructions and away from the corner. Otherwise, tie off the 7th row and start the 8th row as in instructions and away from the corner.  The 8th row will be one complete round of the piece.

    AT THE CORNERS:  In this example, when you get to the corners, the 7th and 8th row will be different. This is the 7th and 8th row of the side. Leave a long tail at the beginning of the 7th row only on the first side you do. When you come up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side (4). Turn and continue back up and down for your 8th row. Turn work. With the front facing you, if you are right handed, you will go to the next side to the left.  This will make this 8th row end at the free floating 3 chain from the last side. Chain 1 and slip stitch into the top stitch of the free floating 3 ch stitch and tie off. Repeat for each side.  At the end, use the long tail of the first section to chain 1 and slip stitch to the last side.

    You will NOT have this last row attached to the corner yet. This will come in the next row (row).

    The 9th row will have the center cluster over the corners. Connect the cluster on the corner stitch and into the lower color. Be sure to leave the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as you ended in the original granny square.

    Treat all other squares just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row.

    As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer or using more rows of each color.  You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw. If you do, make a row, sl st to the top of the Ch 3 space to finish the row, turn your work, and make the next row going in the other direction.

    • TINA GILL says:

      “Step 1. Ch3, DC in first chain space twice.
      Step 2. Ch2, DC in same chain space as step 1, Ch3 and repeat 2X”

      This makes no sense. The first instruction (place a slip knot on the hook) is missing. Then if I follow these instructions as written, I get the following:

      Chain 3, place 2 DC into the first chain. Chain 2, make one DC into the same chain space, then chain 3, then chain 2, then make one DC into same chain space, then chain 3, then chain 2, then make one DC into the same chain space, then chain 3.

      I end up with a strange lopsided wagonwheel.

      • chrystalkay says:

        That was Barbara’s method. I prefer to use a magic circle, but the idea is, to make a granny square. There are several ways to do that. I think she meant to make the whole start of the granny square in the first chain, but it should have been a chain 4 so the last 3 chains would equal the first double crochet. Just start the square with whatever method you like best or check out my last video on the subject. At the beginning I show you how I start one, https://youtu.be/xTy3m9-PzEY?list=PLHC72TfuEIZHOZB-mBUMW7CBo5Nsnzz1K I hope the video will help you over any of the rough spots.

  24. some of the lines got messed up – like the chart

  25. Pingback: Diamond Granny Crochet Throw | Styles Idea

  26. Thank you so much for sharing this beautiful pattern.

    I only have two questions.

    Are you turning after every row, even on the granny square?

    And has anyone used the pattern to make a bigger version? As in one whole blanket and not putting multiples together?

    I hope that all made sense

    Yvonne

    • chrystalkay says:

      Yvonne, You don’t have to turn for the first inside granny part, but since you need to turn for the corners, it just makes the inside match the look of the outside. You can see the difference, but it is totally up to you.
      As for going really big, i don’t know just how big your are talking. You should be able to get to a Calif King size, those are supposed to be as long as they are wide. And that works out fine. Some change or add onto the edges with other squares or color bands etc. Whatever you decide to do, it will be okay. This is your creation!!!

  27. Colette says:

    Love your blanket, have made three for family members and working on a fourth. For anyone who is having trouble with the written patten, I watched the second video, it made it easier for me. Again thank you so much for this design.

  28. Pingback: Diamond Granny Squared Throw | Styles Idea

  29. Terri says:

    I made a blanket for my adult son using one of your “squared diamond” patterns with camo colors and he really loves it!! Thank you so much! I’m trying something new with one for my daughter. I’d like to had the smaller squares in each corner of the blanket but I can’t start them correctly. I’m bad at reading patterns but videos have taught me to crochet. Can you tell me where the pattern starts on the small squares? Is there a video with those? Thank you again!! Merry Christmas!!

    • chrystalkay says:

      Someone else came up with the squares on the corners and I only saw the picture they shared. If I was going to try it, I would anchor 2 stitches up from the corner middle chain and use the corner middle chain as the new center for the square. I would do the attachments the same as for the corners of the main piece, but make 2 doubles, chain 3, cluster(3DC), chain 3, cluster, chain 3, 2DC. Attach to the side of the square 2 stitches up from the center you have been using with a slp st. Slp st over to the corner chain and into the chain space, then chain 2, attach with a sc to side then 2 more DC into the corner space and chain 3 and another cluster and continue on around in granny fashion, attach to side 2 stitches up with a sc. Chain 2 attach 2 sp up with a slp stitch and DC in the SC space below. continue on as usual. The differences as I see it will be the alternate use of the 2 DC or ch2 plus 1DC on the edges where a normal cluster would be in a square, these 2 st row ends would attache with a slip stitch because you don’t put any stitches there on the neat row. on alternate rows, you need to attache with a SC so you have an anchor to fit the 2 stitches in the next row up. Saying it another way… whole cluster ends on one row followed by a 2 stitch cluster on alternate rows. Oh and no ch1 between side clusters and your square builds. Whew! That is how I would do it and you can try that and see what it does for you. Thank you for the complement to my pattern! I really appreciate it!

    • Brenda says:

      You are truly exceptionally talented and even more of a good person.

      Thank you Chrystal.

      Brenda

      • chrystalkay says:

        Wow! Thank you so much for the compliment! I don’t know what I did to deserve it but I really appreciate it!

      • Brenda says:

        Hi dear crochet person! I just bought my yarn to work on the pattern that you have so gracefully shown all of us how to make. I’ll keep you posted 🙂

        And thank you again

        Brenda

  30. chrystalkay says:

    Wonderful! I will be looking for the updates!

  31. TINA GILL says:

    Do you happen to remember which colors you used for the blanket featured on Ravelry.com? Not the one with the red center but the one with the mint center? I LOVE the colors.

    • chrystalkay says:

      Actually it is a color problem with the camera. I used a light blue there and it looks green. If you can actually go to a yarn store, you can spot easily the colors that will look great together. I like to use the darkest on the outside to really let the graphic on top look pop. I use either my lightest color for the middle or a darker variegated related to the lightest color. Sorry I can’t help you more with this question.

    • TINA GILL says:

      I put together colors that I liked. No variegated this time because the color I wanted was sold out. I went with all Red Heart Super Saver in Minty, Jade, Real Teal, Soft Navy and Dark Orchid. 🙂

  32. chrystalkay says:

    Oh it sounds wonderful! Please let me now how you are doing with it.

  33. what are the measurements (how big will it be)? thanks 🙂

  34. Peggy Stuart says:

    Love the look of this.

  35. Judy says:

    What are the colors of the yarn used
    Thank you it is beautiful

  36. I have been doing granny squares for years and found this pattern and was really excited! I found the written instructions really confusing and the video was totally different?? You never stated in the written pattern to turn and who make a first round INTO the stitches??? That was really confusing. That magic ring is even worse I have used it numerous times and everything came apart at the end.

    The pattern is beautiful. I still trying to work it out.

    • chrystalkay says:

      Hun, the first round described in the directions is the 11th round. The slip stitch round after the ten rows of granny square. The corners are added onto the sluip stitch row so the inside granny square stands out. Go back and re- read the beginning, before the directions start. It tells you where I am beginning the directions. Also, in the video, the last one, I mentioned that the inside square should be made with rows going in both directions, so the center would look like the corners. There is a distinct visual difference in going all one way and going front and back. I am sorry you are having trouble.

    • chrystalkay says:

      For a very slow and clear way to do the double magic circle check this out. I did it twice explaining it as I went. Personally I could never get the single magic circles to work without disintegrating. With the double i have no problem at all and can cut it as soon as I finish the center. give it a try…

  37. Mimi says:

    Crystal, I love your colors and pattern used in this video. Thank you for taking time to mull over your ideas on camera. It helps a newbie like me to realize just some of the possibilities this pattern offers.

    Be blessed.

    PS: Enjoyed seeing your fur baby!

  38. Lamojo123 says:

    I’ve been looking for a diamond square pattern since I tried one before and the instructions had so many mistakes I had to ditch it. I’m looking forward to trying out your pattern. I am a yarn hoarder so I have plenty of yarn to practice this on. Thanks for sharing your beautiful pattern. 🙂

  39. Jade says:

    Your pattern isn’t written properly. The instructions are hard to follow when you’re crocheting at the same. You didn’t put 3DC in spaces, other that the corners. You receive one star

    • chrystalkay says:

      Hi Jade! I am confused I guess, I read and re-read the Line by Line section and can’t find a place where I am missing the 3DC. Which line is it? I will change it right away. Thank you !

    • brenda scott says:

      a – one star? not nice. I think another star c/b given for effort; and another one for sharing and yet one more for quickly responding.

  40. chrystalkay says:

    Thank you Brenda, i will take those extra stars humbly, but i still need to know where i messed up. I can’t improve if i don’t know how.

  41. Pingback: Kaleidoscope Crochet Granny Blanket Free Pattern | EASYWOOL

  42. Leanna says:

    I love this pattern and your colors!!!! I’m just curious how many rows of each color per row you did on both the blue and red blankets. I’m just trying to make the same ones! Absolutely love them and want to make very similar!!!! Thank you for sharing!!!

  43. Sawsan says:

    Thank you for this but I want a drawing pattern if you can 🌼🌼🌼

  44. JJ Burry says:

    I am about to start this!! I’m trying to talk my sister into starting one, too.

  45. Annette W says:

    Hi Chrystal, thank you for sharing your time and design. I am anxious to start this project on Sunday. I have one question though. I want my center granny to be diagonal but I am unsure how to get it to that with the way I add the 2nd set . I hope you can understand what I am asking…can you help me.

    • chrystalkay says:

      I hope I am answering this so you can understand it. There is no difference in the actual shape of the square, just its orientation to the outside layer.
      Annette, the second square will automatically make the center diagonal look, like a diamond instead of a square, the third outside set will make it look squared off again and the fourth will make it look like a diamond etc. I usually make 2 outside layers but lay the throw diagonally on my pillow so it looks like a diamond. If you want to make a bed cover, just make 3 outside layers and then add ends or put 2 together to make it long enough. Hope this helps!

  46. Pingback: Squared Diamond Crochet Granny Throw | Pattern Center

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