Alright! new and final how to video on this pattern. I improved on my last how to and hope i have answered all the questions. I have it in left and right hand versions,,,, enjoy!
This written pattern is an add-on to the older video for this pattern… Right hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SxJdbzAtyT4 Left hand: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-XGTv–WXvE hope you can see improvement between the last video and the new one!!!
The verbal instructions for the first video I made and the second, are different, as I learned from doing. Here also, i have learned from doing and added a couple new instructions. I hope this will help those that are struggling with following my videos. I try to improve with every video I make…. really! And in spite of my short-comings, you have given me encouragement and kind words. You don’t know how great that makes me feel. Thank you all!
For the sake of brevity, I am not going to tell you how to make a granny square. I am however telling you what I prefer for this pattern. I had to make some changes from the first one of these I made.
Attention! Barb Preslier has given us a more line by line version of the pattern. It is added below mine, copied from the comments section. Give her a hand for her hard work!
YARN: I actually used nearly a 7oz skein of yarn for my outside or 5th color. And that is for a 5 color, double row square, and 3 layers of pattern. For larger works, adjust your yarn expectations. Allow 1/2 the yarn for the inside color and the others will fall somewhere in between.
HOOK: I used an “I” Hook. Aso known as a #9 and 5.50mm. Having said that, you don’t have to use an “I” hook. You could use a “G” and make 4 panels for a larger bed or make one panel for a crib. You could use a “K” and bulky yarn and make a big floor cover to lay on or play on. Or a “J” and rug yarn for a floor covering. If you are a loose hooker, an “H” size will give you about the same results as mine. Be flexible and don’t angst if you don’t have a ‘right’ hook size.
GRANNY STYLE: For this granny throw, I prefer you to use the standard 3DC clusters, with no chain st between and with a chain 3 on each corner.
I used 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color. You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors. Do go front and back on the rows. I know you might always go in one way front always facing, but the outside corners HAVE to be back and forth and the outside will have a different look from the inside if you don’t.
The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even for the side instructions to help. So grannies of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, etc are required. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.
FINISHING A SQUARE: You have just made a granny square and are ready to add the sides. To prepare for this step, you need to add a slip stitch row around. So, with preferably the front side facing you, mark the center space of the last row. Starting at the first DC of a side will make it easier to know where your connection is when it comes to counting stitches for that side. Now, slip stitch into the front loops only of each DC and chain st. (yes the front loops of the chains too) No need to allow extra stitches for turning the corners, just make sure they are not tight!
EXCEPTION: You will make an extra chain st. in the center, ( between the 2 center clusters) of each side. Place a marker on the extra stitch.
Make extra special sure you end the sl st row with the right # of stitches on the starting and ending side. It is easy to loose or gain a stitch here. It is best to start the slip stitch row at a junction of 2 clusters or between the corner and the first cluster. This way the knot formed by closing the row can be more easily recognized and skipped over.
COUNTING STITCHES: How many stitches should you have on a side? 3 for each cluster, and 2 extra for the corners when not counting the middle of the ch3 space. So, first side add-on with my size…. I had 10 clusters so 3×10=30 plus 2 for the corners =32 Remember the extra stitch I had you add in the center? That makes 33.
STARTING SIDES: First look at the edge of your square. The inner most loops of the sl st (the ones between the front and back) are the ones you will be using. This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece.
Starting at the center marked sl st, moving backwards towards the hand holding the hook, count over and slp stitch into the second st from center, with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch. (3DC. ch3 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center. Ch3. count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC. Turn Work!
Make 2DC in the ch1 space next to the base of the ch3. (3DC cluster made). Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip. Make 3DC cluster in the original ch1 space made when you started the color. Now, to end color, you can use a ch1 and sl st to the second stitch from the last used and tie off there, or you can SC into that st and tie off at the cluster. Turn Work!
Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in that ch1 space. continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, ch3, and SC in second st out from last sl st. Turn Work.
Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on till you reach the corners.
I need to add something here to clarify… in each side, there are 33 stitches including the extra chain st in the center. This does not include the center chain of each corner. I originally thought it would be best to slip stitch at the corner with the 8th row. And, if you decide to do this anyway because it seems easier for you, then slip stitch around the corner chain and not in it. If you do it that way, then tie off the 7th row and start the 8th away from the corner. The 8th row will be one complete round of the piece.
AT THE CORNERS: Your 8th row will be different. when you com up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side. Turn and using the chain one space in the last row, continue back down for your 8th row, by completing the cluster you started with the chain 3. At the end of your first side, leave long tail at the end of the last cluster and do not attach. With the front facing you, you will move forward to the next side. This will make the 8th row end at the beginning of your 8th row on the corner section you just completed. Chain 1 and slip stitch into the top of the chain 3, and tie off. Repeat for each side. At the end, use the long tail of the first section to chain 1 and slip stitch to the last side.
The 9th row, will have the center cluster over the corners. If you used a Ch1 here, bury it here (like you do if you are hiding a tail) and connect the cluster on the corner stitch into the lower color. You will not stitch around it like on the regular granny corners. Go behind the front loop and use two middle ones. This leaves the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as the inner square.
For each ongoing layer of outer squares, you treat them just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row.
As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer, after the first one, or using more rows of each color if you choose. You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw. It is all up to you.
Be flexible and have fun with this. Fudge a couple stitches if you have to to make it work out right. Crochet is very forgiving and will not show such adjustments easily.
Happy hooking guys!
I can’t tell you how happy I am that Barb did this for us! Several people have asked for line by line instructions and now Barb has provided them!
Thank you Barb!
Written instructions by Barb Preslier
Approximately 5 skeins of 7 oz for 5 colors (adjust as needed for fewer colors used)
Ex: 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color for these instructions
You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors.
The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even. So granny squares of 8, 10, 12, etc are acceptable. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.
“I” hook used here but any hook you choose for the desired size of your project
Note: You can use any granny square
Granny: Round 1
Step 1. Ch3, DC in first chain space twice.
Step 2. Ch2, DC in same chain space as step 1, Ch3 and repeat 2X
Step 1. Ch3, 2DC
Step 2. 3 DC, Ch3, 3DC. in Ch3 space. Repeat 3 times. Sl st.
(This counts for 2 rows of the project.)
Continue with 3DC between ea cluster below, and 3DC, Ch3, 3DC in each corner. Do not Ch 1 between clusters!
Continue to do as many rows as you want with as many colors as you want as long as you end with an even number of rows. This makes your center square.
When Granny Square is done, add a slip stitch row around. You will need to add an “extra” slip stitch on each row.
Directions for slip stitch row:
With the front side facing you, mark the center space of every row. Start at the first DC of a side and mark this spot also.
Slip stitch into the front loops only of each DC and chain st.
When you get to the center space, make an extra chain st in the center ( between the 2 center clusters) of each side.
I made the extra chain before the sl st in the exact center since when I made it after the whole triangle seemed off center. Place a marker on the extra stitch.
Marking the center spot will make it easier to know where your extra slip st goes, and where your connection is when it comes to counting stitches for that side. Make sure your sl st are not tight.
It is critical to count your stitches on each row. This will vary depending on the size of your granny square.
Ex: For the 10 rows of 5 color granny square:
3 for each cluster and 1 extra each for the corners (do not count the middle of the Ch3 space.)
So, per side: 10 clusters. 3 stitches × 10 clusters = 30 stitches plus 1 for each corner (there are 2 corners) plus the extra stitch.
30 + 2 + 1 = 33
STARTING THE SIDES:
You will be using the innermost loops. With the front facing you, You will grab the center topmost strand on the edge (the back loop of the slip stitch) and a strand in back of it. You will use these loops for all attachments.
This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece.
Find the “extra” stitch you marked in the center – the center stitch.
Fourth Third Second First
__4__ _____ __3___ __5___ __2___ __6__ __1___ _____ __7__
L4 L3 L2 L1 Center Stitch R1 R2 R3 R4
1. Front side facing. Starting at the center marked square, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right (R2 and R4) and 2 and 4 stitches to the left (L2 and L4). Mark these. Starting at the center marked sl st, count over to the right of center and into the second st from center. Slip stitch (1), with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch (2) . (3DC Ch3 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center (3) (the left side of center). Ch3. Count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC (4) (this will be first stitch of next cluster). The pattern should be symmetrical. Turn work!
2. Back side facing. Make 2DC (in the gap space to the left of the cluster – not the left of the Ch3 space – (5) in the ch1 space next to the base of the Ch3. (3DC cluster made). Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip (no number for this step. Just go into the large gap at the top of the center). Make 3DC cluster in the original Ch1 space (6) (gap space on the other side) made when you started the color. Now, to end color, you can use a Ch1 and sl st to the second stitch from the last used (7) and tie off there. (You can anchor the stitch by entering to the front loop from the back). Turn Work! If using 2 rows of each color, tie off and change color at the end of each back facing row.
3. Front side facing. Starting at the end of each anchor, go 2 and 4 stitches to the right and 2 and 4 to the left. Mark these. Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in that Ch1 space. continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, Ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, Ch3, and sc in second st out from last sl st. Turn Work!
Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on with rows 1-6 until you get within 5 stitches of the corners. You will stop at row 7 in this example.
Do the other 3 sides.
Tip: When you are on the last row (here row 8), you will have 3 stitches left – 2 sl st and a corner. You need to skip one sl st (either the first or second). The corner will be your end. You will not include the corner yet, but it will be the official end spot.
Note: In dealing with the center stitch of each corner when you get to it, if you want to sl st around the corner you can so you can continue on the next section. Do not include the center stitch. Then you will start the next row as in the instructions and away from the corner. Otherwise, tie off the 7th row and start the 8th row as in instructions and away from the corner. The 8th row will be one complete round of the piece.
AT THE CORNERS: In this example, when you get to the corners, the 7th and 8th row will be different. This is the 7th and 8th row of the side. Leave a long tail at the beginning of the 7th row only on the first side you do. When you come up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side (4). Turn and continue back up and down for your 8th row. Turn work. With the front facing you, if you are right handed, you will go to the next side to the left. This will make this 8th row end at the free floating 3 chain from the last side. Chain 1 and slip stitch into the top stitch of the free floating 3 ch stitch and tie off. Repeat for each side. At the end, use the long tail of the first section to chain 1 and slip stitch to the last side.
You will NOT have this last row attached to the corner yet. This will come in the next row (row).
The 9th row will have the center cluster over the corners. Connect the cluster on the corner stitch and into the lower color. Be sure to leave the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as you ended in the original granny square.
Treat all other squares just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row and one strand behind it.
As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer or using more rows of each color. You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw. If you do, make a row, sl st to the top of the Ch 3 space to finish the row, turn your work, and make the next row going in the other direction.
Thanks guys for reading! Happy Hooking!