I am making new video to go with the written version of this pattern. I have worked out a new set-up for my videos, that allow me to see what I a doing while letting you see what I a doing. In other words.. keeping my hands INside the frame! LOL
I will post the new links as soon as I make them. The current ones are below.
Squared Diamond Granny Throw
I Am replacing both my former instructions and Barb Preslier instructions with what I hope is better written instructions for this pattern.
Up top, are detailed long winded notes. It would be good to read them. Below them is a shorter, row by row pattern for you. I really hope this helps everyone!!!!
YARN: For a 5 color project, get 5 7oz skeins of yarn. I used Red Heart regular super saver. The outside color will take almost all the 7 0z. The innermost color, will take about 1/2 that. The others fall somewhere in between.
HOOK: I used an “I” Hook. Aso known as a #9 and 5.50mm. Having said that, you don’t have to use an “I” hook. You could use a “G” and make 4 panels for a larger bed or make one panel for a crib. You could use a “K” and bulky yarn and make a big floor cover to lay on or play on. Or a “J” and rug yarn for a floor covering. If you are a loose hooker, an “H” size will give you about the same results as mine. Be flexible and don’t angst if you don’t have a ‘right’ hook size.
GRANNY STYLE: For this granny throw, I prefer you to use the standard 3DC clusters, with no chain st between and with a chain 3 on each corner.
You must turn your work on every row, or the inside granny square will look different from the outer corners. Those HAVE to be back and forth unless you want to cut and tie off every row.
The only no variation part of this pattern is the number of rows. They must be even! So grannies of 4, 6, 8, 10, 12, etc are required. And the larger outside squares must also end with an even row.
I used 10 rows of 5 colors with 2 rows of each color. You can use as many or as few colors as you like, with single , double, triple, etc. rows of colors.
FINISHING A SQUARE – DOUBLE SIDED and SINGLE SIDED: At end of last row, turn to front. Slp st in front loop of every st around including the Ch3’s. (slp st loosely over Ch sts.) Ch 1 in center of each side and mark it or you will lose it. [pictures 13, 16, 17]
COUNTING STITCHES: How many stitches should you have on a side? 3 for each cluster, and 2 extra for the corners when not counting the middle of the ch3 space. So, first side…. I had 10 clusters so 3×10=30 plus 2 for the corners =32 Remember the extra stitch I had you add in the center of the slp st row? That does not count as a stitch. It is considered both the last and first stitch in the center clusters.
Two sided: Behind the front and back loops of the Slp st row, you will find 2 threads on the edge. One is slightly longer than the second thread back, and the second is a little behind (closer to your hook hand) than the front one. You will use these for every attachment. This will leave a ridge on both the front and back sides of the piece. You will use the back 2 threads of the Ch1 spaces to anchor the corners at each center side.
One sided: On the edge, use one center thread and one back loop to attach every row, the two back threads of the center Ch1 will anchor your corner group.
Note: SC’s used st the beginning and end of rows are treated ike a Ch1 space. You work around the ‘post’ of the sc like you would a Ch st.
Starting at the center marked Ch st, moving backwards towards the hand holding the hook, SC into the second st from center, (edge of your ‘hook side center cluster’) with your center color. Ch1 and make a corner cluster set in the center marked stitch. (3DC, Ch3, 3DC) Ch1 and sl st to the second st on the other side of center. (outside edge of the cluster on the other side of center.) Ch3. count to second st out from where you attached the sl st and make a SC. (center of next cluster) Turn Work!
Row 2: Make 2DC in Ch1 sp. at the base of the ch3. (3DC cluster made). Make a typical corner cluster set in the corner tip. Make 3DC cluster in the original SC made when you started the color. Now, to end color, SC into the middle stitch of the second cluster, and tie off. Turn Work!
Why am I using SC st to tie on and off spots? …To leave the end on the inside of the color and not at the edge. Easier to hide that way.
Row 3: Back on the front to add your next color… Sl st to second st from last used on that side. (1st st of third cluster, hook side) Ch1, make a 3DC cluster in the SC space at end of last color. Continue granny style through the side and around the corner to the other side. Again at the other side, ch1 sl st to second chain from last attachment, Ch3, and SC in second st out from last sl st. (1st st of third cluster on that side) Turn Work.
Each row and set of colors is handled the same way. Continue on till you reach the corners.
AT THE CORNERS: Your 8th row will be different. when you come up from connecting the end of the 7th row, you chain 3 and do not attach to the side. Turn and using the space in the last row, continue back down for your 8th row, by completing the cluster you started with the chain 3. At the end of the row, do not tie off, and do not attach… pull out a long stitch and loosely tie it. Leave a slightly long tail and cut. Turn work. With the front facing you, move around forward to the next side. At the end of the 8 row , Ch1 and slp st into top of the chain 3 of 8th row of the last side you did, and tie off. Turn work to front again and go forward to the next side. Repeat for each side. At the end, use the long tail of the first section to ch1 and slp st to the last side.
The 9th row, will have the center cluster over the corners, and bury the Ch1 space (like you do if you are hiding a tail) and connect the cluster on the corner stitch into the lower color. You will not stitch around it like on the regular granny corners. Go behind the front loop and use two middle ones. This leaves the stitch ridges showing on the inner diamond, so it looks like the inner is sitting on the outer. What color you end your outer square is up to you, but it looks better if you end it with the same color as the inner square.
For each ongoing layer of outer squares, you treat them just like the first. Make your sl st row using the front loops only and make your side connections on these inner loops of the sl st row.
As the squares grow, no 2 side configurations will be alike. You will be using more sets of color bands on each layer, after the first one, or using more rows of each color if you choose. You can use one or two more rows on the outside to finalize the throw. It is all up to you.
Be flexible and have fun with this. Fudge a couple stitches if you have to to make it work out right. Crochet is very forgiving and will not show such adjustments easily.
Happy hooking guys!
Line by Line:
Begin: Make magic circle,
Row 1 – Ch 3, in MC… 2DC, *Ch3, 3DC* 3x’s. Ch2, SC to top of Ch3. Chain 3 and turn. (turn every row on inner granny!)
Row 2 – 2DC in Ch2 sp, *3DC, Ch3, 3DC* in next Ch3 space, repeat *-* 2x’s. 3DC around post of SC, Ch3 Slp st to top of Ch3. Tie off.
Row 3 – Change color, Slp st in any corner and Ch3, 2DC in same sp, *3DC, Ch3, 3DC in next corner*. Repeat *-* 2x’s. 3DC in next gap, 3DC in Ch3, Ch2, SC to top of Ch3 , Ch3 and turn.
Row 4 – 2DC in Ch2, *3DC in next 2 gaps, 3DC, Ch3, 3DC* repeat *-* 2x’s. 3Dc in next 2 gaps, 3DC in SC. Ch3 Slp st to top of Ch3. Tie off.
Row 5 – Change color, Slp st in any Ch3 sp. Ch3, 2DC in same sp. *3DC in next 3 gaps, 3DC, Ch3, 3DC in corner* repeat 2x’s, 3DC in next 3 gaps, 3DC in 1st corner, Ch2 SC to top of Ch3, Ch3 and turn.
Row 6 – 2DC in Ch2, 3DC in each gap, 3DC,Ch3, 3DC in each corner. In 1st corner, 3DC over SC post, Ch3, Slp st to top of Ch3 and tie off.
Row 7 – Change color. Slp st in any corner, Ch3, 2DC in same sp. 3DC in each gap and 3DC,Ch3, 3DC in each corner around. In 1st corner, 3DC, Ch2, SC in top of Ch3, Ch3 and turn.
Row 8 to 10 – repeat rows 6, 7 and 6.
Outside of square – With Slp st on hook, turn to front. Slp St in front loop of each DC and loosely in each Chain. Ch1 in center of each side. Mark Ch1. Slp st to first Slp st and tie off.
This is the end of the inner Granny square.
All row connections:
2 Sided connections are on center 2 threads on edge. See long note above.
1 Sided connections Are on center thread behind the Slp st’s and the back loop.
All outer corners:
All even rows start and end in SC,
All odd rows, start and end with Ch1.
Row 8 does not connect to inner square.
Row 1 – Slp st in 1st outer DC of first center cluster. Ch1, *3DC, Ch3, 3DC*(** Corner set) in marked Ch1 sp. Ch1, Slp st to 3rd, DC of next cluster.
Row 2 – Ch3, SC to middle DC of next cluster. Turn work. 2DC in Ch1 sp. Corner set in corner Ch3 sp., 3DC in Ch1 sp. SC to middle of next cluster. Tie off. Turn work.
Row 3 – Change color. Slp st to 1st DC of next cluster, Ch1, 3DC in SC, 3DC in next gap, Corner set, 3DC in next gap, 3DC in SC, Ch1, Slp st to 1st DC of next cluster.
Row 4 – Ch3, SC to last DC of same cluster. Turn work. 2DC in Ch1 sp., 3DC in next 2 gaps, corner set, #dc in next 2 gaps, 3DC in Ch1 sp. SC to last DC of same cluster. Tie off. Turn work.
Row 5 – Change color. Slp st to middle DC of next cluster. Ch1, 3DC in SC, 3DC in each gap, Corner set, 3DC in each gap, 3DC in SC, Ch1, Slp st to middle DC of next cluster.
Row 6 – Ch3, SC to 1st DC of next cluster. Turn work. 2DC in Ch1 sp., 3DC in next 2 gaps, corner set, #dc in next 2 gaps, 3DC in Ch1 sp. SC to first DC of next cluster. Tie off. Turn work.
Row 7 – Change color. Tie onto last DC on side. Ch1, 3DC in SC, 3DC in each gap., corner set, 3DC in each gap, 3DC in SC. Ch1, slp st to last DC of side, Ch3 and TURN
Row 8 – 2DC in Ch1 sp, 3DC in each gap, corner set, 3DC I each gap, 3DC in Ch1 sp. Pull out long loop or secure with a marker. Leave 4-5” tail. Cut. Turn
End of first side section
2nd – 4th sections:
You have the front facing you. Back up to next the side behind your hook hand (right for right handed, left for left handed)
Same as first, but at end of row 8, you will Ch1 and slp st to 3rd ch of row 8 on last section made.
Now undo long loop on first section row 8 and Ch1 and slp st to top of Ch3 of last Row 8.
Row 9 – Tie onto any corner and Ch3. 3DC in corner, 3DC in each gap to center, 3DC over Ch of Row 8 and through back 2 threads of Ch3 corner of inner square. Repeat to beginning, but Ch2 and SC in 3rd Ch of first DC.
Row 10 – Ch3 and turn. 2DC around SC post, 3DC in each gap and corner sets in each corner to end. #dc in Ch 2 space, Ch3, Slp st into top of Ch3. Turn,
Slip stitch row – slp st into front loops of each DC and Ch st. Slp st into first Slp st. Tie off.
End of second Square.
The next layer, will not end with the last color at the tips of the square you just completed. But the rows are treated just the same.
The Third Square:
Rows 1-14 – Do the same as rows 1- 6 on last outside corner sets.
You will end tied off rows at Row 14. You will be on your second run, through the color changes. So row 14 will be the end of your 2nd color change of the second go round. It will begin and end on the middle DC of the last set on each side.
This is the end of separate sides.
Row 15 goes all around the outside.
Row 15 – Change color. Slp st around SC, Ch3 2DC around same SC. 3DC in each gap, Corner set, 3DC in each gap, 3DC in SC, Ch1 (loosely)! 3DC in next SC (on next side), and continue on around to beginning. Ch1 and slp st into 3rd Ch on Ch3. Ch 3 and turn.
Rows 16 to 20 – Do same as rows 1-10 in inner granny square.
Finish Edge with a row of SC and tie off.
Congratulations!! You Did it!!!